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By George Vondriska
Make
beautiful raised panels without a router table and expensive bits.
The tool of choice for most small-shop woodworkers who want to make raised
panels is the router: A large one, generally 3 hp, hung in a router table,
plus a set of specialized bits. The whole setup will cost $350 to $800
and is money well spent if you’re going to make a whole kitchen-full of
doors.
But what if you just want to make one or two raised-panel doors, say for
a bathroom vanity, a small cabinet, or a jewelry box? With our technique
you can make raised panels with the traditional scooped-out profile using
just your tablesaw. This process is based on the traditional method for
cutting coved moldings on the tablesaw, but we’ve adapted it for making
raised panels. You clamp an auxiliary fence at an angle to your blade,
and feed the panel over the blade repeatedly, taking off only a little
at a time until you get the profile you want. Cutting coves on the tablesaw
can require a fair amount of trial and error, but we’ve eliminated that
by developing a simple recipe that steers you through the process and
gives you perfect results, even the first time.
For large doors, cutting coved panels on the tablesaw is actually a better
technique than using a router. The tablesaw allows you to cut a very wide
profile; wider than you could cut with a router bit. On large raised panels,
like those found on entertainment centers and armoires, the narrow profile
produced by router bits can look out of scale. The best way to cut these
wider raised panels is with a shaper, but again, if you’re only making
a couple panels, this tablesaw method will give you excellent results.
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For many doors, you may still need a router and a rail-and-stile router
bit set to make the door frames. But these are smaller, less-expensive
bits, and don’t require a 3-hp router. For more information on making
the frames to go with these panels, see “Stile
and Rail Joinery," AW #78, February 2000, page 72 and “Raised-Panel
Doors,” AW #86, April 2001, page 32.
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