Benchtop Mortisers

At first glance, the machines appear quite different. But we found that few of the differences directly affect performance.

It doesn't matter whether the fence is cast iron or angle steel. What matters is that the fence is square to the table. Two machines came with fences that weren't square and needed replacing.

It doesn't matter how the head is mounted to the column. What matters is whether the head can be adjusted so it can move up and down the column without racking. Only one machine lacks this adjustability.

It doesn't matter whether the hold-down device is fastened to a post on the fence or mounted directly to the column. What matters is that it does its job. At best, the hold-downs on these machines are barely adequate.

It doesn't even matter which motor speed you choose. Although we liked working with slow-speed machines better, fast-speed machines cut mortises just as well.
Remember three things when you install chisel sets:

1. Allow proper clearance between the chisel and the auger.
2. Tighten the auger so it won't slip.
3. Square the chisel to the fence.


USE TWO SCRAPS OF WOOD when you install the chisel and bit. One acts as a spacer between the chisel and its bushing to assure proper clearance between the auger and the hollow chisel. Its thickness depends on the size of the chisel. Check the owner's manual. The other scrap protects your finger while you hold the auger in position for tightening. Tighten the chuck in all three holes so the auger won't come loose during a cut. Then remove the spacer and snug up the chisel against the bushing. Square it to the fence (inset) and tighten the setscrew.

The hold-down systems on these machines stink!


THIS HOLD-DOWN doesn't sit flat, so the workpiece it's supposed to hold is free to twist, or "rack," underneath it. Poor-fitting hold-downs are common and they're the weak link in these machines.

A POOR-FITTING HOLD-DOWN caused the chisel to bind in this mortise because it allowed the workpiece to rack. Once a chisel is stuck, it's a real pain to get loose. Some of our testers were so frustrated by hold-down failures they decided they wouldn't buy any benchtop mortiser.

Fix the hold-down systems and these mortisers work great.


CLAMP THE FENCE to the mortiser's table, using spacers if necessary, so it stays put when the chisel is withdrawn.

CLAMP A BOARD in front of the workpiece so it can't rack. Sand or file the bottom of the hold-down so it sits flat. Then use cyanoacrylate (CA) glue to attach a piece of styrene to its bottom. (Both CA glue and sheets of styrene are available at hobby stores.) Styrene helps the workpiece slide back and forth more easily under the hold-down.


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Benchtop MortisersImportant FeaturesImportant Features (continued)
Recommendations • Editors' Choice & Best Buys
Tools & Materials: Tool Test • Benchtop Mortisers • August 2000
© 2000 American Woodworker Magazine®