So you’ve mastered the setup, but you’re still having problems? Here are some tips:
- Look for these symptoms when you make your test cut: If the board pulls away from the fence on the outfeed side (Photo 4), the outfeed end of the fence is angled too far away from the blade. If the board you’re cutting binds as you’re slicing it, the outfeed end of the fence is angled too close to the blade. Make an adjustment and try another test cut.
- Always use a sharp blade.
- Keep your feed rate slow. Listen to your saw and slow down if it’s bogging down.
SETUP FOR THIS RESAW
WAS PERFECT, but the wood warped after it was cut. It must now be carefully
planed to remove the cup. 
LOW BLADE TENSION can
cause barrel cuts. - Use a blade with the right tooth count. Too many teeth make it hard for the blade to clear the sawdust.
- Even with everything correctly set, your wood may not cooperate. Wood can sometimes be imperfectly dried, and react after it’s been cut (photo, top). The only solution is cutting your stock thick enough to plane out the cup after resawing.
- Tension your blade. Too little tension can lead to barrel cuts (photo, top). Check the tension by unplugging the saw, raising the upper guide and pushing on the side of the blade. The blade shouldn’t deflect more than 1/4 in.
Bandsaw Resawing
•
Tool Up: Blade Selection & More
When Good Cuts Go Bad
•
The ABCs of Resawing
The ABCs of Resawing (continued)
•
Drying Wood & Veneering a Panel
Bandsaw Upgrades
Feature Article • Bandsaw Resawing • August 2000
© 2000 American Woodworker Magazine ®