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Winter 2012-2013

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  • Re: Help with Identifying some wood please

    Any chance you could post a photo showing the bark? A photo or better description of the needles (flat or round, how long, and how many in a cluster) would help.
    Posted to Wood Questions (Forum) by Dave Boyt on 05-07-2013
  • Re: High moisture hackberry

    Good point, MinnWorker. Might check the batteries. Any way to get a second opinion with another meter? An oven test may be in order. To do that, cut a 6" long piece (give or take a couple of inches) from the center of a piece of wood and weigh it. Then oven dry it 250 deg for a day and a half should do it (a little longer if you have to take it
    Posted to Wood Questions (Forum) by Dave Boyt on 02-06-2013
  • Re: High moisture hackberry

    There is nothing about the hackberry itself that would cause it to have such a high MC. If it was "dead stacked" (no stickers between layers to allow air flow), or if it was covered with a tarp, it is possible that it would be that high in MC. You say it was "cut" three years ago. Does that mean milled three years ago, or the tree
    Posted to Wood Questions (Forum) by Dave Boyt on 02-04-2013
  • Re: Old barn wood?

    Nice. I'm not familiar with double 5 Dutch lapping, but it gave you some nice boards. If you don't watch out, you'll be looking at sawmills. I salvage logs, and would love to get some old barn wood!
    Posted to Wood Questions (Forum) by Dave Boyt on 01-17-2013
  • Walnut root wood

    Last summer, I had the chance to salvage a blown-down walnut tree. It had been lying on the ground for at least six years, but the heartwood was still sound, and very dark. But it was the chance to mill up the root that intrigued me. I destroyed two band saw blades on my portable sawmill from hitting embedded rocks, but it was worth it. I'm curious
    Posted to Wood Questions (Forum) by Dave Boyt on 01-07-2013
  • Re: wild cherry fungus

    By remove the fungus, do you mean you wish to inoculate it into cherry trees to get more burls? That would be an interesting experiment. If you mean that you simply want to stop the fungal activity, that will happen when the wood dries out. Cherry burls are common here in Missouri. I have turned a bowl made from one, and it turned out very nicely. Unfortunately
    Posted to Wood Questions (Forum) by Dave Boyt on 01-04-2013
  • Re: Most usefull sizes for milled wood

    I go along with Mondak. Flitch cutting might be your best option, if the mill can do it with the size logs you have. It will give you the most flexibility in the end product,and allows you to bookmatch pieces, if you keep the flitches together. I basically reassemble the log to dry, as in this photo of cedar flitches. As alternative to weights, you
    Posted to Wood Questions (Forum) by Dave Boyt on 01-04-2013
  • Re: Moisture Content

    What sort of tolerances are acceptable? Flat sawn walnut only shrinks about 2.3% (about 1/4" per ft) across the grain and .25% (about 1/32" per ft) lengthwise when it goes from 15% (air dry) to 7% (kiln dry). Since the frames run lengthwise and the panels are designed to "float" in them, building with air dry lumber won't cause
    Posted to Wood Questions (Forum) by Dave Boyt on 01-04-2013
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