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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="http://americanwoodworker.com/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>Tool Questions</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/29052.aspx</link><description /><dc:language>en</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2008.5 SP1 (Debug Build: 31106.3070)</generator><item><title>Re: Routers</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14454.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 23 Mar 2011 23:53:59 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:14454</guid><dc:creator>Joe Johns</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14454.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29052&amp;PostID=14454</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Ohh, my, but you do have a flair&amp;nbsp;for opening up&amp;nbsp;Pandora&amp;#39;s box!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;This subject, unlike&amp;nbsp;Shakepeare&amp;#39;s Julius Caesar,&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;will die thousands of deaths and no one will be the victor.&amp;nbsp; What you have to do is,&amp;nbsp;ultimately, try both.&amp;nbsp; I, frankly, grew tiresome of arguing this subject and gave in to the fact some people&amp;nbsp;think a plunge router is what they have, that is what I&amp;#39;m going to use and so there.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;But I&amp;#39;ll tell you what&amp;nbsp;a representative of Porter Cable told me at a woodworking show, &amp;quot;A plunge router was not designed to be used in a router table&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Why?&amp;nbsp; Well, because of the workings of the plunge mechanism.&amp;nbsp; The tubes that slide up and down?&amp;nbsp; In a table environment they are upsidedown and dust will get in there&amp;nbsp;eventually and clog up the shafts.&amp;nbsp; Unless you get a fancy adjustment plate that fits&amp;nbsp;your specific router then adjusting the depth of cut accurately is impossible.&amp;nbsp; That plate can cost in the neighborhood of&amp;nbsp;$300.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;So, for a router table, I advise&amp;nbsp;getting a fixed based router.&amp;nbsp; As for HP,&amp;nbsp;no less than 2 1/2 HP, preferably 3 1/4 HP.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Joe Johns, &lt;a href="http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com"&gt;Twisted Knot Woodshop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Routers</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/5260.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 14 Mar 2010 19:23:55 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:5260</guid><dc:creator>dansharp</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/5260.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29052&amp;PostID=5260</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;which type of router works best on a router table? A plunge router or a fixed router.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>