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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="http://americanwoodworker.com/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>Technique Questions</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/2421.aspx</link><description /><dc:language>en</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2008.5 SP1 (Debug Build: 31106.3070)</generator><item><title>Re: base board mitre joints on a narrow angle</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/38944.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 09 Oct 2012 21:54:05 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:38944</guid><dc:creator>salmaan</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/38944.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2421&amp;PostID=38944</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;nice effort my dear friend, you have really done a great job. i was just passing by this forum and have seen your effort. hope to provide you with some future projects&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: base board mitre joints on a narrow angle</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/38920.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 06 Oct 2012 06:34:15 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:38920</guid><dc:creator>Adeline Bosanquet</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/38920.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2421&amp;PostID=38920</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I like your post very much. I can take some ideas from your topic. Thanks for share.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: base board mitre joints on a narrow angle</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/23719.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 03 Aug 2012 22:10:49 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:23719</guid><dc:creator>chad stanton</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/23719.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2421&amp;PostID=23719</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Hello. I know&amp;nbsp;it has been a long time since you posted your question. I was wondering if you ever found your answer. I was intrigued by the question so i went into my own shop and made a 43 degree wall set up and began experimenting. I was able to do it. However it wasn&amp;#39;t&amp;nbsp; as easy as i thought. I kept the one piece straight. the other i first cut at my maxium angle of my mither saw which was 60 degrees. Not enough. So i needed more of an angle. Not feeling safe adding shims or wedges behind the saw, i made a miter box. I kept increasing the miter angle and coping it. I was able to do it. It was hard to measure the exact angle when i was done, but it seemed to be close to 80 degrees. Then i coped it and it fit great.&amp;nbsp; How did you finally do it?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;chad stanton&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: base board mitre joints on a narrow angle</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/15923.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:15:17 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:15923</guid><dc:creator>MinnWorker</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/15923.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2421&amp;PostID=15923</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/8712.Figure-1.jpg"&gt;&lt;img src="http://americanwoodworker.com/resized-image.ashx/__size/550x0/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/8712.Figure-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/8130.Figure-1.jpg"&gt;
&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/8130.Figure-1.jpg"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;
Figure 1.&amp;nbsp; Base molding
installation details&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/8130.Figure-1.jpg"&gt;
&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/8130.Figure-1.jpg"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/8130.Figure-1.jpg"&gt;
&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/8130.Figure-1.jpg"&gt;OUTSIDE CORNERS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/8130.Figure-1.jpg"&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; These are always Mitered Joints. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;INSIDE CORNERS&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; These are made
up of both a Butt joint and a Cope joint. When deciding which piece is to have
the Butt joint and which is to be a Cope joint, you must consider the most
likely view point of the viewer.&amp;nbsp; In Fig 1
above the two Cope pieces are on the right hand side while the Butt piece is on
the left side from the viewer&amp;#39;s position. This is done to prevent the viewer
from seeing small gaps in the actual Cope joint. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;COPING A JOINT&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Inside
corner joints between molding trim members are usually made by cutting the end
of one member to fit against the face of the other. Shaping the end of the butting
member to fit the face of the other member is called coping. Fig. 1. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;To cope a molding, miter the end at 45&amp;deg; the same way as if the molding were to
have a plain mitered
inside corner joint. A, Fig. 2. Then set the coping saw on the line at the top of the miter cut. Hold the saw at 90&amp;deg; to the
back of the molding and saw along the face contour line created by the 45&amp;deg; miter cut. B and C, Fig. 2. The
end profile of the coped member will
match the face of the
other member. D, Fig. 2. The result is a good, tight joint. It will not open up
when the molding is nailed in place, and it is not likely to open up as the wood shrinks after installation. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/8130.Figure-1.jpg"&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/5224.Figure-2.jpg"&gt;&lt;img src="http://americanwoodworker.com/resized-image.ashx/__size/550x0/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2421/5224.Figure-2.jpg" border="0" alt="" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>base board mitre joints on a narrow angle</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/15859.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 26 Oct 2011 19:28:36 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:15859</guid><dc:creator>skipclay</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/15859.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2421&amp;PostID=15859</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;OK...this may sound like a goofy question, but I have two walls that came together on a 43 degree angle.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; I woudl like to cope one baseboard into the other.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; I have gotten frustrated in trying to do this since creating a coped fitting does not seem to work when using something other than a 90 degree corner.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; Any tips or am I just being silly?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>