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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="http://americanwoodworker.com/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>Finishing Questions</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/2416.aspx</link><description /><dc:language>en</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2008.5 SP1 (Debug Build: 31106.3070)</generator><item><title>Re: Black walnut bar top</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40732.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 12 Feb 2013 10:49:47 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40732</guid><dc:creator>rbraeking</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40732.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2416&amp;PostID=40732</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;The type of finish depends on the use.&amp;nbsp; I have finished natural edge pieces with polyurethane after filling all the defects with epoxy filler that has been tinted.&amp;nbsp; That will yield a durable finish that is impervious to spills and water rings.&amp;nbsp; The pour on epoxy finish that has been suggested IMHO is a bit tacky looking.&amp;nbsp; It is important to climatize the piece to the space before applying finish and it is also important to finish all sides to minimize future movement.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;My preferred finish on natural edge wood is a Johnson&amp;#39;s paste wax finish with numerous applications and buffings.&amp;nbsp; Wood movement is immaterial, the wax smells good, imperfections slowly accumulate a wax filler and any damage can easily be fixed with sandpaper and more wax.&amp;nbsp; The drawback is that you must insist that your guests USE COASTERS as water rings will form easily.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Check out the mesquite slab end table on my website.&amp;nbsp; &lt;a href="http://www.sanddollarwoodworks.com"&gt;www.sanddollarwoodworks.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Bob&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Black walnut bar top</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40722.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 09 Feb 2013 20:44:12 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40722</guid><dc:creator>MinnWorker</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40722.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2416&amp;PostID=40722</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;div&gt;Any kind of a finish such as varnish, shellac, or polyurethane on natural 
wood will just not hold up on a bar top. To preserve the natural beauty of 
walnut, the only solution in my mind is to epoxy it. I am sure you have seen 
table tops in restaurants that have a clear glass like finish that emphasize the 
beauty of the natural wood beneath the finish. This is done with epoxy. It is 
oblivious to any chemical or liquids spilled on it and remains crystal clear. I 
have never had a need to use it on a bar top myself but I have had much 
experience working with it building canoes and kayaks and I can ensure you it is 
easy to work with.  Although the materials are not cheap, their price is well 
worth your satisfaction.&lt;/div&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;
&lt;div&gt; &lt;/div&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Below are a couple of web sites. The first demonstrates how to apply it, 
the second is a link as to where to purchase it. &lt;/div&gt;
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&lt;div&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVKL77iZaTA"&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVKL77iZaTA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;
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&lt;div&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.colorcopper.com/products/Bar-and-Table-Top-Epoxy-COMMERCIAL-GRADE.html?gclid=CIaBmKSAqrUCFe1AMgodrjcAJg"&gt;http://www.colorcopper.com/products/Bar-and-Table-Top-Epoxy-COMMERCIAL-GRADE.html?gclid=CIaBmKSAqrUCFe1AMgodrjcAJg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Black walnut bar top</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40721.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 08 Feb 2013 20:21:46 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40721</guid><dc:creator>Annette Watson</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40721.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2416&amp;PostID=40721</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p style="padding-left:30px;"&gt;&lt;span&gt;My husband and I are building a custom home which includes a 14 ft island/bar and the top is made of black walnut with a living edge. This home is extremely rustic and my husband actually cut the black walnut trees from our property. We are now getting various suggestions on how to finish. This is the focal point of the large open space, but want it usable also. has some cracks and knot holes which we wanted to keep for the rustic look but also will be using &amp;nbsp;the area such as eating- cooking and there is also a prep sink in one end . Your honest feedback most appreciated!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p style="padding-left:30px;"&gt;&lt;span&gt;Help! &amp;nbsp;What would the experts do?????&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p style="padding-left:30px;"&gt;&lt;span&gt;Annette Watson&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
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