http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/2416.aspxenCommunityServer 2008.5 SP1 (Debug Build: 31106.3070)http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14880.aspxMon, 30 May 2011 05:55:47 GMTf5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:14880Rascall Morrison0http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14880.aspxhttp://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2416&PostID=14880<p>Looking forward that you have finished it already.</p> <p><a target="_self" href="http://diyhometools.com/rockwell-rk9000-jawhorse/">Rockwell Jawhorse</a> and <a target="_self" href="http://diyhometools.com/milwaukee2410-22-m12">Milwaukee M12</a>.</p><div style="clear:both;"></div>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14808.aspxFri, 20 May 2011 19:17:36 GMTf5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:14808Tim Johnson0http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14808.aspxhttp://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2416&PostID=14808<p>Hey Bob and Dave,</p> <p>If you plan to apply varnish or polyurethane as a topcoat, you should stain and finish the panel(s) before you glue the assembly together. Then stain and finish the frame. You can tape off the panel, but it really isn&#39;t necessary, because the topcoat will seal the surface&mdash;you&#39;ll be able to wipe off any stain or finish that gets on it.</p> <p>Good luck&mdash;and have fun!</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Tim</p> <p><i>American Woodworker</i> Senior Editor</p><div style="clear:both;"></div>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14794.aspxThu, 19 May 2011 20:48:25 GMTf5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:14794Dave0http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14794.aspxhttp://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2416&PostID=14794<p>I&#39;m pretty much in the same boat right now with a bench I&#39;m building that is all frame and panel construction.&nbsp; My plan is to finish the panels before the glue-up.&nbsp; I think I&#39;ll then mask off the panel area when I finish the frame components.</p><div style="clear:both;"></div>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14775.aspxTue, 17 May 2011 09:53:52 GMTf5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:14775Rascall Morrison0http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14775.aspxhttp://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2416&PostID=14775<p>&nbsp;Hi sir. I think you have the right plan there.</p><div style="clear:both;"></div>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14705.aspxWed, 11 May 2011 14:20:00 GMTf5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:14705rld0http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/14705.aspxhttp://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2416&PostID=14705<p> <p class="MsoNormal">I have made a door for a cabinet, which has a flat panel that I book, matched from a piece of white oak.<span>&nbsp; </span>Oak rails and stiles with grooves and stub tenons house the panel.<span>&nbsp;&nbsp; </span>I will not glue the panel in the frame but will use some spongy material (somewhat like space balls) in the grooves to allow for wood movement.<span>&nbsp; </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">My question is regarding the staining and finishing the door.<span>&nbsp; </span>Should I stain the panel and rails and stiles, being careful not to stain where glue is applied to fasten the rails and stiles together, or should I glue the door completely together, then fit the door and then stain the assembled door</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">It&rsquo;s certainly easier to stain the unassembled pieces but I&rsquo;m concerned that if sanding and/or cutting is required to fit the door then I&rsquo;ll have to re-stain the raw cuts and it may not blend very well.<span>&nbsp; </span>I&rsquo;m using gel stain and I&rsquo;m also concerned about build up of stain in the corners of the grooves in the rail and stiles</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Comments and suggestions welcome?</p> <p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;</p> <p class="MsoNormal">Bob</p> <p class="MsoNormal">San Diego</p> </p><div style="clear:both;"></div>