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I bought this Freud combo kit (WoodCraft $399.00) and I always guestion my decisions. Was this a good purchase or should I go with something else. I'm leaning on a Porter Cable 3.24 HP model 7518 Router and building my own Router table. I would like an answer ASAP
Pete,
Have you considered the Triton brand of routers? As I recall they seemed to be a smartly appointed, high value option for a dedicated router table application. I highly recommend a DEDICATED table router. Another well known publication did a review (sorry, I can't recall the issue) a while back and the Triton earned high marks for your application. It may be worth a look.
I have a router table wing on my Jet cabinet saw and there are few changes that I'd make (read: shortcomings).
1) The fence. I have an Exacta fence on the saw which doubles as the router table fence. This is not Ideal because any adjustments and set-ups are lost when the fence is moved. This arrangement is especially aggravating with cope-and-stick door profiles and similar applications where consistency of dimensions and repeatability are important for quality results.
2) Dust collection. I have a small shop in my basement with a ducted dust collection system. However, the router table is not connected to the system and hands down, generates the most mess because of it. The chips, shavings and dust generated by the router get into everything! Unfortunately, there is no provision for me to incorporate dust collection into my router table. There is no shroud or dust port. My next router station will have a port for some sort of dust collection directly behind the cutter head.
3) Cross cut slot/"T" slot. A cross cut slot and a miter sled/guage are two features easily incorporated into a router table. They enable more precise and safer end routing on narrow stock like door stiles and rails and provide an easy way to mount finger boards and hold-downs to safely run narrow strips and moldings. I don't have a cross cut slot on my router table and I wish that I did. Profiled door frames and raised panels are a hassle at best for me with my current set up. Accurate tenons and half-laps are a waste of time. Some of my "solutions" would put me in contention for a Rube Goldberg prize.
I digress.
A long-winded life story of my router table. It'll be the first and last arrangement of it's kind to grace my shop. Aside from it being a messy, inconvenient and inefficient hassle, it works.
Oh yeah, the router. It's a Bosch variable-speed non-plunge type with a Rou'T'r lift type plate. I can't change bits without removing the plate from the table and applying two wrenches to the collet and jamb nut. A dedicated table router is the way to go.
Anyway, good luck. Examine your needs and spend the money on a dedicated system with smart features, even if you don't think you'll use them, you might be surprised. Cry once about the money and be done with it.
Good luck,
Jesse
I bought it as well and haven't used it yet. the table is good and stout and the router seems fine. The above table adjustment takes more turning than I'm used too to bring the colet above the table to change the bit. So far the jury is still out for me but I think it will be okay.
Nice infromative reply thanks for sharing with us.
Do any of you have any experience or advice about a Kreg portable router table?
That's really good kit and i also provide of your decision.thanks for shared with us...!!
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I built my own portable style router table. The steel stand resembles the Style that Kreg uses, but I used a Freud fence and a Woodpeckers plate. A Porter-Cable 890 router is mounted underneith, which works fine considering that I don't do raised panels, if I did I have a DeWalt 3hp plunge router that I bought when the DeWalts were still made in the USA. I'm very happy with the setup that I put together, it's fairly heavy which absorbs any vibration, and it's very rigid. I doubt that the Kreg is built as well.