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Yes, it's Red Oak from the local Home Depot. It's 1.83 for a 10 foot 1x4 but it's nice stuff. I figure if I can pay for my wood and hardware bills I'm doing O.K. I like the big projects. Someone once told me if it ain't Oak, it ain't furniture. Well I don't know about that but try to sell an Oak hutch in these uncertain times.
Thanks for the info. I got a green light from the wood supplier to consider White Oak for the Open Hutch and the Pie Safe. In 4/4 the 200 b.f. will cost me 200 x 2.75 = $550 plus $35 for shipping to my home.
The wood supplier would be:
In the meantime I am studying this since my experience with Oak has been limited:
Distinguishing White Oak from Red
Methods for discerning different oak types. May 19, 2004
"When", according to my calculations you paid almost twice as much money for the red oak that you bought at Home Depot than buying it at a lumber supplier.
1.83 $/foot for a 4/4, 10' long, 4" wide = $18.3
The piece is 3.3 b. f.
So it comes out to 18.3 / 3.3 = 5.5 $ / b.f.
At the following place you pay $3.85 a b. f. for quantity of 1 to 5 b.f., of rough red oak.
For the Open Hutch that I plan building (per Matthew Burak) I'll need at least 100 b.f. Buying the lumber at Home Depot would be a disaster in my case.
See plans for this hutch here:
For some reasons AW did not show, in above plans, a photo of Matthew Burak's piece. So let me try to enter it here (notice that it is distressed on purpose) :
Lately, Matthew has come up with a new hutch which he calls a dresser. See here about it:
Home > Woodworking Plans & Articles
North Shore Dresser
By Matthew Burak
I have found the photo of the Classic Country Hutch by Tim Johnson and Tom Caspar, from this AW magazine, in a 2005 issue (which I built 2 years ago in cherry, and I would like to thank them for the GREAT DESIGN. My daughter loves it), see it here:
This is a pretty good looking painted cupboard. I like the color. The top part is quite a challenge, doesn't it? You had the skills and the patience to do it ! Congrats!
I'm building two kitchen hutches and seeing yours encourage me to go ahead. Mine should be painted 'King Ebony', a 'Collection' color by Benjamin Moore.
Learn from yesterday - Work today - Enjoy success tomorrow
Serge, you are a super woodworker! As for myself, first let me tell you that the blue painted cupboard that you see above is only my 2nd painted furniture ever. I hate painting furniture! In this project, my mistake was to follow Norm Abrams direction to use soft wood such as Poplar and then paint it over. Well, Norm was true to the piece in Winterthur museum. My 2nd mistake was to use Walmart's Kiltz "Eggshell Casual Colors" water based paint and not Benj. Moore's Regal Premium as Norm specified. I had to lay 4 coats of paint over the Bulls Eye's Sealcoat primer to make it solid. Also, the Walmart Kiltz paint is still sticky even now after three month since painting it. The doors stick!
By the way, the color is Kiltz Electra which is close to Carolina (the University) Blue, which is also close to Obama Blue. See it here:
Serge, if you are selling the Horizontal Router Table then how its price compares with the Matchmaker selling for $1,030? See it here:
P.s. what kind of lock do you have on the Porter Cable router housing to clamp the motor body in this photo b/c it is not the regular lever knob with the screw:
Well, O.K. but my planer can rest while yours is busy planing down those 4/4 boards. My 3/4 boards are all most ready for glue-up when they come to me. I guess I'm not a purist with my veneer plywood, my 3/4 boards, and my power tools. A buck eighty-two a foot for a 1x4 suddenly doesn't sound that expensive.
"when", I have yet to find an untwisted board ready to be assembled in any store. I buy 5/4 and thicker in rough, and first joint one face and next plane them. But, I let the lumber acclimate in my shop for at least a couple of weeks before.
p.s. I had a photo of my woodshop here for a few minutes untill I saved it in a document and deleted the post. I could not saved it otherwise, directly from the PhotoBucket website.
Well, thank you for your kind words.I'm not a super woodworker, but I work super hard to be a good woodworker! LOL
Painting hardwood is a real commitment. I believe a hard decision to make. But when it's needed, it's needed.
That Matchmaker is quite a Horizontal Router Table. I believe the $1030 tag price is worthed. I particularly like the joy stick to steer the stock around. Mine is not on production and not for sale. I made it for my own needs. It was fun to build and it works great.
The lock on my router is the new standard on P-C 690 routers. They went form the thumb screw to this lock lever about two years ago when they launched their new model. Check it here P-C 690 LR. I have both models and they are both effective. This one is a little quicker. It's great for frequent bit changing. Since I own several routers, I can't say I wouldn't live without it. What I miss though is the old toggle switch. I hate the new rocking switch, reason why I treated myself with a foot switch.
I saved a copy of your hutch for future reference. I really like it. I would use a darker paint though. I think this is the kind of furniture that must be painted to replicate the old antique look.
Hi Serge. I saw a photo of the new lock on the Porter Cable 690 base in their website. I have yet to see it closer in a store. I asked my question b/c about 10 years ago I designed a safety lock on the old PC 690 base to not allow the motor body to come loose, exit the base and hover in the shop. It happened to me with a large panel raising bit. The motor with the bit spinning in it were flying in my shop while restrained by the electrical cord. My new lock modification interfered with the motor body coming out from its spiral groove in the base. I assume that the new lock solved it even if left unlocked.
It must have been quite a scary experience to chase a loose spinning router in the shop. This beast could bites, for sure! Something similar happend to one of my friends, but with a smaller bit. She forgot to lock the motor in the base.
Do you think yours got loose because you used such a large router bits? The P-C 690 is not meant to use a large panel raising bit. Maybe the vibrations have something to do with the issue.
One this is sure, this is a bad scary experience, isn’t it?
For your convenience, find attached photos of the new LR base lock lever. However, I don’t think this lever will prevent the motor from coming out if not locked properly.
Serge, thanks for the photos. While looking at the new 690 base- lock, in your photos, I don't think that Porter Cable solved the following problem. If you leave the latch unlocked could the motor body be turned out? My design does not allow the motor to come off unless you press a spring loaded latch. See in the above photos of my, the spring loaded 1/16" thick interposer that sticks into the spiral groove in the base. It is mounted on the existing screw and fits thru the existing slot. To insert the motor housing I first press the interposer spring to let the built- in pin on the motor housing pass it and enter the spiral groove in the housing. The main negatives of this design are the fact that you need to press the interposer to insert or remove the motor and the scratches on the aluminum motor housing.
My (almost) accident was this: while the old 690 was mounted in an open frame type RT (no walls around) I forgot to tighten the base locking screw. The carbide bit in it was about 2" dia. While switching the power ON the starting moment backed the motor out from its spirals in the base groove, downwards. Luckily, the motor with the spinning bit hoverd out from the side of the frame but not toward me.
Soon, I plan to go and study the new 690 base- lock at the local big box.
Presently, I prefer the 7518 3 1/4 HP adjustable speed PC router in RTs!
P.s. Serge, I added a zoom photo of my safety latch. The 1/16" steel plate that you see mounted on the locking screw inside the slot extends in thru the slot and reaches the motor body. It prevents the pin on the motor body passing it and letting the motor come all the way out from the base, without pressing the spring. On the new PC cam lock router base, if you don't set the nut properly, the motor could fall down if mounted in a TR, even if you lock the hasp!
If I could start over again, the P-C 7518 would be the router I would buy for my router table. No router can't beat this one: Motor body length, the body is removable form the base, 5 speeds, soft start. Actually I have a Hitachi M12V 3.25 HP in the router table and it does the job. The downward is the motor body can't be removed. I have to change bits within the router table, which is more awkward. I bought the Hitachi because it was on sale at half the price of the 7518. Maybe in another life ! For heavy duty jobs I still have my Delta benchtop router/shaper. I use it with large 3-1/2'' panel raising bits. At 12500 RPM it's too slow for small bits. But believe me, this induction motor doesn't lack power. I was lucky to get it half price on a clearance sale few years ago.
I can't see your spring loaded latch on the pictures provided. Is there a missing photo?
On the new 690 base, the motor can be removed if the latch is unlocked. The lock only prevents the motor body from spinning in the base. I have this type of router in a smaller router table and I remove the motor body after unlocking the latch. Your idea of pushing a spring loaded latch really goes a step further. I believe such latch would cost more on production for a company. On the other end, owners have their own responsability about safety. This is the reason why I like this warning: "Don't work when tired or distracted."
I like the link you provided in an earlier post to search through old AW magazines. This is just great! Thanks.