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I am wondering how I can get the rich, dull, dark finish found on 60+ year old pieces of oak of oak furniture on my new shopmade pieces?
Hi Farmall.
You've asked a great question, but in order to give you the most useful answer, I'd like to know more about the finish you're trying to achieve. If you have a photo that shows an old oak piece with this "rich, dull, dark" finish, I'd like to see it. Please respond by posting that photo on this thread. The "Help" menu in the tan box at the upper right corner of this page provides instructions for posting photos in your blog. If you don't have such a photo, just
say so, and we'll go from there. I do have some ideas to share with you. Tim
I do not have a photo. I have this very vivid picture of some of the pieces I have seen in various antique shops and auction houses. It seems to me that the older finishes seem to have such a deep (not necessarily dark) tone and slightest copper tint to them that I haven't seem to be able to find in any stain samplesthat I have come across.
Old finishes have a unique appearance, because they contain both applied color and the color of the wood. As wood ages, it's color changes, even under a finish. For example, oak turns from pale tan to a yellow-gold color. So I suspect the finishes you remember consist of a warm brown color applied over oak that has aged to a golden color. Reddish brown over golden yellow could result in the coppery tint you recall. At first, I'll bet the finish appeared uniform in color; then, as the wood's color became stronger over time, it affected the overall color and tone.
You can't replicate this multi-colored finish with stain alone (unless you want to wait 100 years for the wood's color to change underneath it), because staining turns everything the same color. Instead, you have to apply the color in layers. Start by applying a coat of water-based yellow, golden oak or honey amber dye to replicate the color of aged oak—you'll have to experiment on scrap stock to determine which colors work best. When the dye has dried, apply a wash coat of shellac, to create a barrier between the wood's dyed color and the stain you'll apply next. Your choice of shellac (clear, or amber) also affects the final color. Lightly sand the shellac and then apply a coat of brown-colored pigmented stain (gel stains and glazes made from artist's oil colors work great for this). the stain will temper the wood's yellow ground color without obliterating it. A finish with multiple colors (deep tone, but not necessarily dark, as you say) is the result. Actually, you can skip the shellac step and apply the brown stain directly on the dyed wood. When you use this method, the layered effect will be muted and the wood's overall color will be darker. Again, experimenting with the entire process on scrap stock is the key to finding the correct combinations of dye, shellac and stain that result in the pleasing finish colors you remember. I hope this helps. Tim