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OK...this may sound like a goofy question, but I have two walls that came together on a 43 degree angle. I woudl like to cope one baseboard into the other. I have gotten frustrated in trying to do this since creating a coped fitting does not seem to work when using something other than a 90 degree corner. Any tips or am I just being silly?
Hello. I know it has been a long time since you posted your question. I was wondering if you ever found your answer. I was intrigued by the question so i went into my own shop and made a 43 degree wall set up and began experimenting. I was able to do it. However it wasn't as easy as i thought. I kept the one piece straight. the other i first cut at my maxium angle of my mither saw which was 60 degrees. Not enough. So i needed more of an angle. Not feeling safe adding shims or wedges behind the saw, i made a miter box. I kept increasing the miter angle and coping it. I was able to do it. It was hard to measure the exact angle when i was done, but it seemed to be close to 80 degrees. Then i coped it and it fit great. How did you finally do it?
chad stanton
Chad Stanton
Figure 1. Base molding installation details
OUTSIDE CORNERS
These are always Mitered Joints. INSIDE CORNERS These are made up of both a Butt joint and a Cope joint. When deciding which piece is to have the Butt joint and which is to be a Cope joint, you must consider the most likely view point of the viewer. In Fig 1 above the two Cope pieces are on the right hand side while the Butt piece is on the left side from the viewer's position. This is done to prevent the viewer from seeing small gaps in the actual Cope joint. COPING A JOINT Inside corner joints between molding trim members are usually made by cutting the end of one member to fit against the face of the other. Shaping the end of the butting member to fit the face of the other member is called coping. Fig. 1. To cope a molding, miter the end at 45° the same way as if the molding were to have a plain mitered inside corner joint. A, Fig. 2. Then set the coping saw on the line at the top of the miter cut. Hold the saw at 90° to the back of the molding and saw along the face contour line created by the 45° miter cut. B and C, Fig. 2. The end profile of the coped member will match the face of the other member. D, Fig. 2. The result is a good, tight joint. It will not open up when the molding is nailed in place, and it is not likely to open up as the wood shrinks after installation.
These are always Mitered Joints.
INSIDE CORNERS
These are made up of both a Butt joint and a Cope joint. When deciding which piece is to have the Butt joint and which is to be a Cope joint, you must consider the most likely view point of the viewer. In Fig 1 above the two Cope pieces are on the right hand side while the Butt piece is on the left side from the viewer's position. This is done to prevent the viewer from seeing small gaps in the actual Cope joint.
COPING A JOINT
Inside corner joints between molding trim members are usually made by cutting the end of one member to fit against the face of the other. Shaping the end of the butting member to fit the face of the other member is called coping. Fig. 1.
To cope a molding, miter the end at 45° the same way as if the molding were to have a plain mitered inside corner joint. A, Fig. 2. Then set the coping saw on the line at the top of the miter cut. Hold the saw at 90° to the back of the molding and saw along the face contour line created by the 45° miter cut. B and C, Fig. 2. The end profile of the coped member will match the face of the other member. D, Fig. 2. The result is a good, tight joint. It will not open up when the molding is nailed in place, and it is not likely to open up as the wood shrinks after installation.
I like your post very much. I can take some ideas from your topic. Thanks for share.
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nice effort my dear friend, you have really done a great job. i was just passing by this forum and have seen your effort. hope to provide you with some future projects