American Woodworker

Lumber Library

Tom Caspar — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 16:50:41 GMT

In issue #144, October/November 2009, we published a story on how to make "books" from wood. Here are some close-up photos of some of the books we made for that article. For a larger view of each book, just double-click on the photo.

If you catch the bug and make some books of your own, please add your photos to this forum.

Thanks!

Tom Caspar

Editor, American Woodworker

Cedar chest finish

chet — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:39:20 GMT

I have just finished a chest lined with aromic cedar, sides and bottom. I read where it is not wise to apply finishes to the inside of such a project because the finish will inter act with the cedar and become soft. My question is what to apply to the underside of the solid cherry lid and the sliding tulip popar tray.

thank you

Chet okon9@verizon.net

Finishing Black Walnut

Just Bill — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:35:33 GMT

I have just completed a sofa table made of Black Walnut, I now have to finish it. My thoughts are as follows. First I was going to apply four coats of boilded linseed oil, allowing then to dry after each coat and scuff them up with 400/600 grit sand paper. Once the last coat has dried sufficently, I was going to either apply Min wax hand rubbed poly OR use a satin poly spray. Does this sound like a practical approah or am I out in left field.

Thanks for all and any advice

Just Bill

Table saw Dust Collection Modifications

oldyankeebarn1390 — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:50:18 GMT

A recent magazine article (I cannot remember which magazine) discussed various modifications to improve the dust collection efficiency of table saws. I can remember is that the article was in year 2009 and very thorough very well written combined with excellant photos and drawings. A first class article for a wood working magazine. Now, if only, can someone refresh my memory as to which magazine and which issue. The reason for the question is that I designing a dust collection system for a museum that I volunteer at and I have got to modify the table saw along with all of the other equipment (with a $0.00 budget).

Thanks for your help.

Woodwork magazine

mvflaim — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 21:41:29 GMT

I was pleasantly surprised to get the latest edition of WoodWork last weekend. I was wondering when the new website will be up and running?

Boring a straight hole

tomrbensin — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:24:14 GMT

I have a 4 foot long newell post and need to bore a 7/16 hole, 3 inches deep. How do I ensure the hole

is straight and parallel to the post. If it was bored crooked, it may not look straight after installation. I have a floor

drill press but at a loss on how to mount it so that the post is straight and in line with the press. Any help would

be appreciated. tomrbensin@aol.com

.30-06 Rifle Cartridge Pens

Fayette Thornal — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 12:00:14 GMT

These pens are made from actual .30-06 cartridges (Gunpowder removed). The wood is whatever I have on hand at the time of making them. I normally have Purple Heart, Rosewood, Cocobolo, Mahogany, & Walnut. At present I have one acrylic and it is ruby with black marblizing. The below picture is one of the pens.

I also make different full wood pens from varing wood. If you have a preference, let me know.

AMERICAN DISSTON

DUSTY MILLER — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 21:21:17 GMT

ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE AN ORIGINAL AMERICAN DISSTON SAW FOR SALE.AGE DOES NOT MATTER.THE ORIGINAL D-95 DISSTON HAND SAW.

Woodworking shows

greywolf — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 22:30:32 GMT

I just joined, and was wondering if there are any woodworking shows, coming up in Seattle or the Phoenix area.

Thanks Tom

6" thickness planer

wormy040 — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 02:57:08 GMT

Craftsman 6" thickness planer. good shape. 75$ 712 829 2276 leave message

bowed top

jerry c spears — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 19:05:39 GMT

I'm in the process of refurbishing a small solid oak desk–a teacher’s desk, I suppose; it has drawers on the right side, and the left is open to the knee-well. It was probably built in the 40s or 50s.

To facilitate the process I took off the top (solid oak, 26 X 38), and laid it flat and upside down on a workbench. My workshop is just a walled shed, no heat, no air, and as if Louisiana is not humid enough already, during the month of October we had rain on twenty-something days. So, while I was working on the base of the desk, the top was turning itself into an ‘S’. It also separated along one of its glue joints

Any suggestions on how flatten this top again and make it stay that way? I’ve considered cutting thin kerfs on the underside along its length. I’ve got lots of clamps and even a Scunci Steamer if that’s the way to go. I'm not trying to make a museum piece out of this, but I would like for the top to be flat.

Thanks for the help.

Working with Melamine 3/4" sheeting

fmblair08 — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 14:01:59 GMT

I'm installing 30 4' x 8' sheets of Melamine sheeting on my studded walls in my basement (indoor soccer room). Can I use heavy duty construction adhesive rather than using screws all over? My intention is to only use screws on the ends near the seams which I would cover with 1.5" T molding. Also screws at the ceilng and floor. Any advice on this project would be greatly appreciated.

Veneer Repair

cargoman — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 20:01:24 GMT

We purchased a Japanese style coffee table through a local police auction. The original white finish on a particle board base appears to have been covered with a veneer that was stained black. In trying to refinish the black surface, we noticed a few cracks in the veneer. I tried to patch these with Min-wax wood filler and wet-sanded the surface. My wet-sanding caused my problem. On that day the temp. here in the Phoenix, AZ area was well over 100F. I was doing the sanding outside our garage and apparently the heat-absorption of the black finish coupled with the softening of the glue holding the veneer caused the cracks to widen and to lift the veneer. When I moved the table back into the garage and pressed the lifted veneer, the degree of the lifts (bubbles) was reduced significantly but not completely. So my problem is, can this veneer lift be repaired, and if so, how? If not, is there an easy way to remove all the veneer from the table-top and replace it?

Thanks for any and all advice you can provide, and any direction to sources that could help with this problem.

Fred

Laguna Tools Platinum 10" Dovetail Tablesaw - Used

thise — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 21:16:20 GMT

Our Platinum Series Tablesaw has a massive widely spaced cabinet mounted cast iron trunion system perfectly machined to ensure a smooth and highly accurate tilting system. The second part of the trunion system is the raising and lowering function. We achieve this using a cast iron dovetail like you will find on high end metal working machines. Not only is this system highly accurate and strong it also has the added benefit that the saw blade raises and lowers in a straight line so you exactly know at all times where the center of your saw blade is. Precision ground table top made of premium grade cast iron, heat treated and ground to mirror-like flat surface using surface grinding technique. 20" x 27" main table with 2 T-slots, fitted with two 10" x 27" cast iron ground wings. This tablesaw has a robust spindle supported by two precision ball bearings. 1” flat poly v-belt is transmitting power more with less vibration and power loss. It also comes with a powerful oversized 3HP TEFC motor and standard magnetic safety switch. EZ-Glide T-Square system for accuracy, repeatability, and easy operation. Standard precisely machined miter gauge with adjustable miter bar. This Platinum Series tablesaw has a 4" dust port with a sloped dust chute inside cabinet for better dust collection. Standard regular insert and dado insert.
CSA, UL, CE certified.

Saw is in perfect condition and is ready to ship - Price $1500 plus shipping from Irvine CA.

Please call 800-234-1976 ext 9672 and ask for Travis

Laguna Tools LT 16 3000 Series Bandsaw - Demo Units

thise — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 21:09:27 GMT

Our award-winning LT16 bandsaw just got better by incorporating features from our Heavy-Duty series bandsaws. The long list of standard features now includes foot brake with micro-switch, rack and pinion for the upper guidepost, geared trunions with gas spring, quick tension release, and aluminum Laguna Guides. This new version features a 3 HP Leeson motor for plenty of power when resawing. The cast iron trunions, table, and wheels provide the stability needed to accurately slice wafer thin veneers from a tall block of hardwood. Our award winning Laguna Guides insure positive control and tracking for your blades while the dual 4" dust ports provide optimum dust control. The LT16 provides the perfect balance between price and performance.

Demo Units available for a short time - FIRST COME FIRST SERVE - $1400

CALL 800-234-1976 EXT 9672 AND ASK FOR TRAVIS

UV Finishes

Dave Macklem — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 20:09:45 GMT

About 5 years ago I finished a walnut grandfather clocjk with minwax wipe on poly. I did not use a stain, just the poly over the walnut. After about 5 years with the sun light coming through my wifes picture window sheers one side of the walnut has bleached out. I will be stripping the effective area this winter and will refinish. Can anyone recommend a good wipe on finsh that will not sun bleach? I was thinking about using the minwax Clear Shield. Can this be cut so I can wipe it on? If so, will it lose its UV protection? I plan on at least 4 coats.

Dave Macklem

Norfolk, Virginia

Furniture Designing

rdwernecke — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 11:37:14 GMT

I would like to find on line courses, for designing furniture/cabinets/closets. Are there any schools that provided courses in drafting on-line. I, at my age do not really want to take full courses that have drafting courses included. If any of the schools out there can provide me with these courses I would appreciate you letting me know.

I am 63yrs. old, on disability, and am unable too drive more than a few miles.

Richard W.

bonus holiday project DVD

tymorgan — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 13:41:35 GMT

My issue #145 came in a sealed plastic bag but the only inclusion was a reminder that it was my next to last issue. Other than the cover, the DVD is not mentioned again. Where is the DVD?????

Wood Filler Question as it Relates to gluing

DetDad — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:56:31 GMT

If I use a paste wood filler on a piece of oak can I still successfully glue to the surface of the piece. My intentions would be to do the glue up after the paste wood filler is used and dried and then add the finish etc. DetDad

Woodwork Magazine

Milosam — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 01:20:12 GMT

I purchased Woodwork Magazine from my newsagent in Australia until it stopped. I believe that a special issue will come out in November. Can you tell me whether it will be distributed in Australia and if not how can I obtain a copy?

Many thanks

Milosam

Raised Panel door questions

Paul D Andrus — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 10:40:48 GMT

Hello everyone here. I just joined a few minutes ago.

I'm a beginning woodworker, and need lots of advice. My first issue is using a 3.5" ogee bit for raised panel doors I am making. Can someone walk me through it? I have a PC 3.5 HP fixed router in my base, and have been successful on small projects; (dadoes, edging etc) but now I need advice on how to use it for the raised panel doors. I would appreciate all the advice I can get, and then some!

Thanks to everyone here, and I'm sure I will enjoy this new site.

Paul

bugs in wood

Ron Christenson — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 18:08:06 GMT

I have some nice pieces of wood that i have resawn, old barnwood ,crotch pieces of firewood etc. It has signs of bugs(powder post beetles?) still alive. How do i kill them? Spray it with Raid then seal it in a garbage bag for a week or so? This is real nice looking wood. Any other ideas?

walnut lumber

ebeday — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 20:02:44 GMT

I am a 60 something hobby woodworker, having been introduced to the joys of wood crafting in high school. In grade 11, I made a coffee table for my parents' home from walnut lumber, making the butt joints to join the boards and planing the pieces flat and to thickness all by hand. I remember the lumber having been referred to as "Satin Walnut". In the early years of my first marriage I made a bookcase bed, night stand and chest of drawers, mostly by hand, by this time I was able to purchase a power plane to make the panels, a labour saver to be sure.

About 10 years ago I wanted to build a hallway table from "Satin Walnut" only to be told that the lumber was no longer available because walnut was an endangered species. I was able to purcase a substitute called 'Gumwood" and the project went ahead.

In the October/November issue, there is a weekend project to build a Walnut coffee table, the wood pictured is the colour of the "Satin Walnut" I remember from the sixties. Any "Walnut" supplied to us here in Canada is black in colour, "Black Walnut".

Can anyone tell me if Satin Walnut and Walnut is the same wood and if so, where to buy it in Canada.

Hoosier cabinet parts

Jack — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 16:07:37 GMT

Would like to sell metal bread drawer and flour bin complete with sifter and cap. Some rust after more than 75 years but NO pinholes. Would like to get $75.00 each but but make and offer. Buyer pays freight. Would be packed by UPS to preclude damage. Opa8grand

Stickley Sideboard

Paul Lajoie — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:52:42 GMT

Hi, I'm looking for plans for a Stickley Sideboard I believe might be in issue #74. But there are none left for sale in the back isseus. So if someone has one for sale, or knows where I can get one I'd really appreciate it. Thanks for any help you can give.

Paul