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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="http://americanwoodworker.com/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>American Woodworker</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/</link><description>All Posts</description><dc:language>en-US</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2008.5 SP1 (Debug Build: 31106.3070)</generator><item><title>What wood is least likely to burn?</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/41613.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 11 May 2013 19:52:00 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:41613</guid><dc:creator>jbalthouse</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/41613.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2422&amp;PostID=41613</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I have an unusual project coming up and think it best not to confuse by trying to explain. I remember trying to burn gum many years ago and it was reluctant to burn unless put into a very hot fire. I don&amp;#39;t know what variety of gum it was and would have no idea where to get it. Is there another wood&amp;nbsp;with fire resistance&amp;nbsp;that would be as good or better? Where should I look for several board feet? I hope I don&amp;#39;t have to ask a local sawyer to come up with a small special order.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Help with Identifying some wood please</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40921.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 08 Mar 2013 17:19:58 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40921</guid><dc:creator>cwiseman10</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40921.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2422&amp;PostID=40921</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of wood that I was given which had been lying outside for a while so I decided to put it on a lathe and make something. Not too sure why but I made a miniature baseball bat. There was only a small section from this branch that could be used as the rest was rotten. Anyway, I am trying to figure out what type of wood it is. I have had people tell me its a type of Yew and some say its a Pine. I&amp;#39;m inclined to say its a type of pine as it must be a soft wood due to it having needle leaves. Its a very fragrant piece with a lovely red center running right the way through it and yellowish wood on the outer. The bark too is very thin. It was found in Georgia.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me with this one please? :)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thank you, Chris&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src="http://americanwoodworker.com/resized-image.ashx/__size/550x0/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2422/6114.DSCN1914.JPG" border="0" alt="" /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2422/7318.DSCN1917.JPG"&gt;&lt;img src="http://americanwoodworker.com/resized-image.ashx/__size/550x0/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2422/7318.DSCN1917.JPG" border="0" alt="" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Rockwell 34-300 table saw part wanted</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/41244.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 12 Apr 2013 21:19:22 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:41244</guid><dc:creator>Bob Stoll</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/41244.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29052&amp;PostID=41244</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I need the miter gauge assembly for this saw. &amp;nbsp;Anyone have any ideas on where to find it?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Design/layout concaved x-leg bench</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/41383.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 23 Apr 2013 00:25:31 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:41383</guid><dc:creator>gda70h</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/41383.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2421&amp;PostID=41383</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Desire to make upholstered occasional bench, 20X32 inches with half overlap x-legs which are concave 2-3 inches from the outer edges to the center (like chair back turned on end).&amp;nbsp; Can not picture how to layout the half-laps with the concave feature.&amp;nbsp; Any ideas? &amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Clean-up on saw table </title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40394.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 01 Feb 2013 18:47:57 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40394</guid><dc:creator>toyman</dc:creator><slash:comments>3</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40394.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29099&amp;PostID=40394</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Recently I was gluing wth Liqiuid Nail using my table saw as a work bench DUH!&amp;nbsp; It has now harden I have got it off by scraping with a chisel now what is the best way to polish the surface of my saw.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>directors chair</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/41188.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 02 Apr 2013 05:48:42 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:41188</guid><dc:creator>ian mustoe</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/41188.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29099&amp;PostID=41188</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;does anyone have or know where i can find plans for a directors chair&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>bookcase</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/39806.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 04 Dec 2012 22:02:27 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:39806</guid><dc:creator>marksplace</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/39806.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2421&amp;PostID=39806</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I&amp;#39;m planning on building a bookcase out of oak. The overall deminisions will be 71&amp;quot; tall and 54&amp;quot; wide. The shelves will be made out of 3/4&amp;quot; plywood and be approximatly 52&amp;quot; long. They will be loaded with nursing books. I&amp;#39;m planning on using a small piece of oak wood rabbitted and glued for the shelf to set on probably an inch and a quarter on the front and back of the shelves for strength. My question is can I span this far without the shelves sagging and if so will the inch and a quarter be enough? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Portable Router tables</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/38952.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:56:58 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:38952</guid><dc:creator>MarkK</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/38952.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29052&amp;PostID=38952</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I&amp;#39;m looking to purchase a portable router table for my Bosch Router.&amp;nbsp; I&amp;#39;m looking at the Kreg PRS2000.&amp;nbsp; I&amp;#39;m a relative novice, but can anyone give me some advice--on this table and others?&lt;strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Looking for Woodworker to Hire for Small Project</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40812.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 01 Mar 2013 19:33:42 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40812</guid><dc:creator>Jason</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40812.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29099&amp;PostID=40812</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Hi,&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; I am a designer with a small business that works with craftsman, woodworkers, artist, etc to make varying products to sell.&amp;nbsp; I am currently working on a project that requires a talented woodworker.&amp;nbsp; I have a model ship I bought at an antique store in Maine I want to duplicate and make model ship kits from it, in limited number, like 50.&amp;nbsp; The ship itself is not like the usual ornate model ships.&amp;nbsp; It&amp;#39;s very basic in detail, completely made from unfinished wood.&amp;nbsp; I am looking for a woodworker to work with and create kits based on this ship.&amp;nbsp; Your part would simply be creating a template from the original, sourcing the wood, and cutting the wood pieces.&amp;nbsp; The rest we do on our end.&amp;nbsp; If interested, please email me at jason@pasteusa.com and put &amp;quot;model ship&amp;quot; in the subject line.&amp;nbsp; I can then email you pics of the ship and we can go from there.&amp;nbsp; I am hoping to keep this as an ongoing project, maybe eventually do other types of models.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Jason&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Removing dried glaze finish</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40780.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 22 Feb 2013 15:29:29 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40780</guid><dc:creator>Tom Guilbault</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40780.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2416&amp;PostID=40780</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I recently finished building a cherry blanket chest but I made a mistake in the finish process. I&amp;#39;m looking for some direction to correct my mistake. I first applied two coats of sanding sealer ( wax free shellac ), then I applied a coat of burnt umber glaze with glazing medium. After drying I decided to add a second coat of glaze to darken the color but after applying the second coat I got called away to do something else. By the time I returned the second coat of glaze had dried and I could not rub it out.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Can someone please let me know what my options are for correcting this problem ? Should I add a third coat of glaze , strip the finish down, or sand it down. I would greatly appreciate your help in this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Bandsaws</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/5204.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 04 Mar 2010 20:33:20 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:5204</guid><dc:creator>JMPHAPPYHOMES</dc:creator><slash:comments>6</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/5204.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29052&amp;PostID=5204</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I am starting to look for a 14&amp;quot; bandsaw and do not&amp;nbsp;want to spend much money. The Ridgid brand is available&amp;nbsp; below&amp;nbsp; 500.00 with a 3/4 hp. motor what information can someone provide or suggestions. JMP&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Gluing workpieces</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40386.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 31 Jan 2013 00:14:03 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40386</guid><dc:creator>James Allen</dc:creator><slash:comments>5</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40386.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2421&amp;PostID=40386</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Technical Question; I&amp;#39;ve seen it both ways on woodworking shows. When gluing two pieces together, should you apply glue to both pieces, or is one enought?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Jim&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Router RPM</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40760.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 15 Feb 2013 23:46:45 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40760</guid><dc:creator>Jeff Allan</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40760.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29052&amp;PostID=40760</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Has anyone heard of a &amp;quot;SPEEDOMATIC&amp;quot; router with a 1/2&amp;quot; shaft&amp;nbsp;made by SIEBURG Industries in Danbury, CT?&amp;nbsp; There is no other label information other than MODEL: 115V and 8 AMP.&amp;nbsp; I&amp;#39;m trying to find out its RPM.&amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Craftsman Excalibur Elite 8" Dado Set ( 3 Blades )</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40729.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 11 Feb 2013 23:39:52 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40729</guid><dc:creator>DougP</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40729.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29052&amp;PostID=40729</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I was given this dado set and it was completely disassembled. I am looking for assembly&amp;nbsp;instructions so I may use the dado set on a table saw which has the motor oriented to the left of the blade.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>New woodworker creating panels</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40730.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 12 Feb 2013 03:33:08 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40730</guid><dc:creator>HBC3</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40730.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2422&amp;PostID=40730</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Hi ive been using wood as a framer now for years but now ive recently inherited a nice tablesaw, router with table, and nice jointer and various hand planes, bits etc.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;just because im a framer doesnt mean squat framers are by far intricate or have finese (lol) ive often been called the bull in a china closet.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Heres my question : In making panels is it necesary to cut a splice joint? or can one (making sure both edges are true)&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;just glue and clamp 2 , 3 or 4 pieces of wood together that have flat edges?&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Im asking for tables of all sizes from large family style tables to small nightstands. Any advice or links to examples would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;HBC3&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Best Sander for Contour Sanding?</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40742.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 13 Feb 2013 20:58:45 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40742</guid><dc:creator>Treefan</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40742.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2422&amp;PostID=40742</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any recommendations for the best electrical sander to use for contour and or furniture with rounded surfaces?&amp;nbsp; I have to do this alot and finding one sure would save time. Any help appreciated.&amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Most usefull sizes for milled wood</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/4843.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 31 Dec 2009 16:01:52 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:4843</guid><dc:creator>Boattech</dc:creator><slash:comments>5</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/4843.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2422&amp;PostID=4843</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Hello members, Happy New Year!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I recently had to remove some of the Black Walnut trees from my property. I had them sent to the local mill to be cut for&amp;nbsp; home furnishings and alike.&amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;We have not decided on any specific plans yet because we have time on our side.&amp;nbsp; We intend to let the wood dry naturally for a year or two.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I&amp;#39;m having trouble deciding what dimensions will be most useful for such projects. Any Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Frank P.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title> Black walnut bar top </title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40721.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 08 Feb 2013 20:21:46 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40721</guid><dc:creator>Annette Watson</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40721.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2416&amp;PostID=40721</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p style="padding-left:30px;"&gt;&lt;span&gt;My husband and I are building a custom home which includes a 14 ft island/bar and the top is made of black walnut with a living edge. This home is extremely rustic and my husband actually cut the black walnut trees from our property. We are now getting various suggestions on how to finish. This is the focal point of the large open space, but want it usable also. has some cracks and knot holes which we wanted to keep for the rustic look but also will be using &amp;nbsp;the area such as eating- cooking and there is also a prep sink in one end . Your honest feedback most appreciated!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p style="padding-left:30px;"&gt;&lt;span&gt;Help! &amp;nbsp;What would the experts do?????&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p style="padding-left:30px;"&gt;&lt;span&gt;Annette Watson&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p style="padding-left:30px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p style="padding-left:30px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p style="padding-left:30px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p style="padding-left:30px;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>drill press stand</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40717.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 07 Feb 2013 15:39:47 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40717</guid><dc:creator>sal0715</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40717.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29099&amp;PostID=40717</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;does anyone know where I can get plans for the drill press stand that is in the &amp;quot;25 tips for Shop Storage&amp;quot; report?&amp;nbsp; Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>High moisture hackberry</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40375.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 25 Jan 2013 16:00:54 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40375</guid><dc:creator>John Hill</dc:creator><slash:comments>3</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40375.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2422&amp;PostID=40375</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I was just recently given a nice size stack of 1&amp;quot; thick&amp;nbsp; hackberry that&amp;#39;s been cut 3 years.&amp;nbsp; I also received some cherry and red cedar.&amp;nbsp; I believe to all the wood had been store inside up until 3 months ago when it was moved outside then covered in plastic.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; I checked the moisture content of all and the cherry was 0%-6%.&amp;nbsp; The cedar was 6%, and the hackberry was 50% to 99%.&amp;nbsp; I wonder why the hackberry moisture is so high.&amp;nbsp; &amp;nbsp;I want to use&amp;nbsp;it for kitchen cabinets.&amp;nbsp; I&amp;#39;m starting to research building my own kiln dryer.&amp;nbsp; Anyone have a good solution / ideas for getting it dry.&amp;nbsp; Presently it is stacked and stickered under&amp;nbsp;a side shed.&amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thanks&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Finishing Black Walnut Desk</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40285.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 22 Jan 2013 04:20:17 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40285</guid><dc:creator>Jim K</dc:creator><slash:comments>5</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40285.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2416&amp;PostID=40285</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I am just finishing making a large desk made of black walnut-it&amp;#39;s only taken about a year to do.&amp;nbsp; I do not wish to stain it - just the natural wood. I am&amp;nbsp;looking for the right finish - the table top is 31&amp;quot; by 104&amp;quot; - and I expect that eventually it will hold full glasses of water, wine, maybe a beer...I used boiled linseed oil on&amp;nbsp;a tall dresser I made a few years ago of the same wood - and it still looks great...but the desk will likely get more abuse - nicks and glassware....&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Gluing Black Walnut</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/6157.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 25 Jun 2010 12:52:11 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:6157</guid><dc:creator>Fjesso</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/6157.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2422&amp;PostID=6157</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I am building a set of kitchen cabinets from black walnut.&amp;nbsp; I have been told that due to the oil in the wood that I should clean the gluing surfaces with acetone before gluing.&amp;nbsp; Is this true ?&amp;nbsp; Can anyone comment on this ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>How to lighten walnut</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40247.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:59:08 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40247</guid><dc:creator>hornetcounselor</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40247.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2421&amp;PostID=40247</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I want to get my walnut desk top to have a reddish cast.&amp;nbsp; How do I lighten the walnut prior to staining?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Searching for Plans, Tips, Ideas, etc for building Sliding Compact Shelving</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40245.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 18 Jan 2013 23:13:09 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:40245</guid><dc:creator>BobNVL</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/40245.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=29099&amp;PostID=40245</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I have thousands of books and will be aquiring many more when my father moves and he gives me his huge library.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The only way that I can think of to handle all of these books is with something akin to compact shelving such as shown on these pages:&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;http://www.southwestsolutions.com/equipment/library-compact-shelving-library-furniture &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;http://www2.montel.com/eng/applications/education_libraries/education_libraries.htm&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;http://www.librisdesign.org/docs/ShelvingforLibraries.pdf&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; - go to page 22&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;http://www.deneefinc.com/pdf/Understanding_Shelving.pdf&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;http://www.southwestsolutions.com/images/stories/jreviews/692_spacesaverhighdensitymobilebookshelving_1312048029.jpg&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I am not planning to make a crank or moterized version, just one where I can slide the bookcases sideways to open up an isle to get at a particular unit.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Given the weight of such a system when loaded with books, I don&amp;#39;t plan to support it from the ceiling. It will be supported by the floor - it will be on the first floor and I plan to reinforce the floor from the basement.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;What I have in mind are bookcases with rollers/wheels on the bottom in tracks and then tracks at the ceiling to stabilize the units but not take any of the weight.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Given the weight issues, I think that this would be a combination wood and metal project.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;While I have not yet learned to weld, I have a neigbhor who has voluntaried to teach me - he is a retired machinest.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Detailed plans would be great but I doubt any exist. Any and all suggestions, comments, tips, etc. will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Bob&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Old barn wood?</title><link>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/11907.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 22 Dec 2010 15:15:09 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">f5d4cb8b-9fb3-4c0a-bdc0-3814c4db8d93:11907</guid><dc:creator>Steve Newman</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/thread/11907.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://americanwoodworker.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=2422&amp;PostID=11907</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, old barn wood siding CAN be re-used.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; I had some that used to be double 5 dutch-lap siding.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; I found I could rip off the Tongue &amp;amp; Groove edges, plane the siding flat ( or at least until most of it was flat), do a rip down the middle, and have some real nice Doug.Fir boards.&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; Once you get by the gray on the outside, the wood is a nice deep reddish brown.&amp;nbsp; Try it sometime.&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2422/7418.SDC10164.JPG"&gt;&lt;img src="http://americanwoodworker.com/resized-image.ashx/__size/550x0/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2422/7418.SDC10164.JPG" border="0" alt="" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href="http://americanwoodworker.com/cfs-file.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2422/7181.SDC10253.JPG"&gt;&lt;img src="http://americanwoodworker.com/resized-image.ashx/__size/550x0/__key/CommunityServer.Discussions.Components.Files/2422/7181.SDC10253.JPG" border="0" alt="" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>