Woodworker Bryan

Sawing Rack

2013-06-04T14:38:00Z

Sawing Rack

My shop is simply too small to cut full-size sheets of plywood on the tablesaw.After many a bitter battle using a circular saw to cut floppy sheet stock perched on sawhorses, I developed this handy rack for cutting those full-size sheets down to size.One side is designed for crosscutting while the other is used for ripping. The rack makes a sturdy platform for supporting the plywood while rough cutting with a circular saw.

To build the rack:Rip scrap 3/4-in.plywood to 3-in.Cut 1-in.-deep dadoes every 12-in. or so to create the half-lap joints.Assemble with glue so there are no metal fasteners to ruin a misguided blade.Topped with a sheet of plywood, the rack can also serve as an assembly table.

Floor Drawer

2013-06-04T14:36:00Z

Floor Drawer

Here’s a great space-saving tip. I first made “floor drawers” like these for under-the-bed storage.They worked so well I decided to use them in the shop. Floor drawers work great for storing scrap wood or infrequently used tools and supplies. Make the drawers long but shallow so the contents are easy to get at. I made mine with non-swiveling wheels and an oversize handle so I can push them in a straight line with my foot.

Swiveling Outfeed Roller

2013-06-04T14:32:00Z

Swiveling Outfeed Roller

Here’s an outfeed roller designed to support long boards behind the saw for ripping or alongside the saw for crosscutting. When not in use, the roller can be hung on the wall or otherwise stored out of the way.

To build: Screw swivel-ball casters to a piece of 3/4-in. stock in a zigzag pattern, so they swing freely. Screw the caster platform to a 3/4-in. plywood frame and clamp it to a sawhorse to make it level with the saw’s table. This swiveling support also works great behind a bandsaw when you’re cutting curves in long,wide boards.

Pull-Out Router Table

2013-04-03T15:41:00Z

Pull-Out Router Table

Tired of pulling out that heavy router table every time you need it? Save space and your back by mounting your router table under a workbench with sturdy swing-up appliance hardware. Set-up and knock-down are a snap.You need 16 inches plus the height of your router’s housing under the table for clearance. Plan your installation so the router table and your workbench meet flush for adequate infeed and outfeed support.

Power Tool Caddy

2013-04-03T15:36:00Z

Power Tool Caddy

This plywood stand for power tools is compact and mobile.To lock the stand in place, just flip down the hinged board at the base.

Cut the hinged board wide enough so it will lift the casters off the floor when you flip it down. Screw it on the bottom of one of the end panels using 3-in.- wide butt hinges and attach rubber door bumpers for added slip resistance.

When you’re planing or jointing (in the direction of the flipped-down board) the stand can’t move.

A Great Sawhorse

2013-04-03T15:24:00Z

A Great Sawhorse

These sawhorses are sturdy and they fold flat for easy storage. Building them is a snap: joint and plane 2x4 stock to 1 in.; then rip to 3 in.Crosscut at 30 in. for the legs and 18 in. for the stretchers. Use a biscuit joiner and double stack #20 biscuits at each joint.Assemble with a 1-1/2-in. continuous hinge and locking table leg braces.

Tool Storage Book

2013-02-14T18:32:00Z

Tool Storage Book

Put a ton of tools up on the wall in this tool “book.”Hang 1⁄2- or 3⁄4- in.-thick plywood “pages”4 in. apart on horizontal 2x4s with 3-in. door hinges. Screw and glue 3⁄4-in. plywood blocks between the hinges and the 2x4s so the pages can pivot without binding. The pages shown here are 16 in.wide by 24 in. long—build yours whatever size you need.

Tablesaw Worktable

2013-02-14T18:29:00Z

Tablesaw Worktable

Turn your tablesaw into extra workbench space with a piece of 3⁄4-in.plywood.Attach wood strips around the plywood edges for a snug,no-slide fit on the metal table.

Caution: Always crank the blade below the surface and unplug the tablesaw before using it as a workbench base.

Pegged Tablesaw Tools

2013-02-14T18:24:00Z

Pegged Tablesaw Tools

For a nifty way to keep tablesaw accessories in reach, attach perf-board panels to the tablesaw stand. Drill holes in the legs of an open metal stand and bolt the perf-board in place.

Swing-Out Plywood Storage

2012-11-14T18:07:00Z

Swing-Out Plywood Storage

I was looking for a way to keep my small inventory of plywood organized and easy to access. The garage at my town house is small, but I did have a narrow space along one of the sidewalls next to the overhead door. After some head scratching I designed this swing-out storage unit. It fits the space perfectly and allows me to access any piece of plywood that I want because it works like a file folder.

I bought all the materials for it at my home center for around 75 bucks. The hinge is made out of 1-in. pipe parts and fastened to the end of the storage container with 1-1/4-in. pipe straps. The pipe is connected to the wall with pipe flanges. The unit rolls on four 3-in. non-swiveling casters.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker March 2004, issue #106.

March 2004, issue #106

Purchase this back issue.

Spray Can Storage

2012-11-14T18:02:00Z

Spray Can Storage

I’m a great fan of aerosol finishes, especially now that many of them have adjustable tips that make much less splatter. But my shop got so cluttered with half-used cans that I had trouble finding the color I wanted, so I built this simple storage rack for all the cans. Now I can instantly find just the color I’m looking for. The shelves need to be 5-in. deep, but the angle isn’t critical. Anything between 45 to 75 degrees will work. Mine is 70 degrees.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker July 2003, issue #101.

July 2003, issue #101

Purchase this back issue.

Deep Drawer Organizer

2012-11-14T17:31:00Z

Deep Drawer Organizer

I built a deep drawer for my workbench so I would have lots of storage, but it created another problem. The tools I wanted were always at the bottom of the heap. I solved my frustration by adding an upper and lower tray. The upper tray slides forward or backward on top of the lower tray, making the lower tools fully accessible. Both trays are removable, so I can carry them closer to a project, if I need to.

I made my trays out of 3/8-in.-thick pine and assembled them with glue and brad nails.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker September 2003, issue #102.

September 2003, issue #102

Purchase this back issue.