Woodworking Shop

Snap-On Soft Jaws

American Woodworker Editors — Fri, 03 May 2013 19:07:00 GMT

Snap-On Soft Jaws

I’ve been using an old metal-working vise in my shop for years. Occasionally I really do need a metal-working vise, but most often I use it to hold drawer sides up high when cutting dovetails. Unfortunately the metal jaws can be a hazard to edge tools and they can mar the surface of the wood. I solved these problems by adding a pair of soft jaws to the vise. The jaws are just two pieces of pine with a couple holes for recessed rare earth magnets. The soft jaws literally snap in place to provide a non-marring clamp surface for my stock plus a non-threatening surface for my edge tools.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker January 2003, issue #98.

January 2003, issue #98

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Small Parts Organizer

American Woodworker Editors — Fri, 03 May 2013 18:18:00 GMT

Small Parts Organizer

I’ve designed a small-parts chest that’s as useful as it is simple to make. I’ve found those disposable, plastic containers for leftovers are ideal for small parts, such as screws and nails. The containers come in a variety of sizes. I like the “soup-” sized ones that measure 6 in. x 4-3/4 in. x 2-3/4 in. They cost about $3 for a five-pack. The overhanging edges of the container fit into dadoes cut into the sides and dividers of a simple box. The containers work like drawers with or without the lids. I keep the lids on mine so my screws don’t end up packed in sawdust.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker January 2003, issue #98.

January 2003, issue #98

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Q & A: Sawing Aluminum

American Woodworker Editors — Fri, 03 May 2013 18:11:00 GMT

Q & A: Sawing Aluminum

Q:

Can I cut aluminum with my chop saw?

A:

Yes.Most carbide blades work fine for occasionally cutting aluminum, but we recommend using a special, non-ferrous metal-cutting blade (about $70) if you cut a lot of aluminum or brass. It’s safer to use than a standard blade because the geometry of the teeth makes it less likely to kick back when cutting a soft metal.And it will last longer than a standard blade because the teeth are made of a softer carbide.

No matter which blade you use, feed the saw about one-third slower than you do when cutting wood.Coating the blade with a regular dose of WD-40 (when the saw’s not running) prevents the gullets from clogging.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker April 2001, issue #86.

April 2001, issue #86

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Q & A: Warped Wood Woes

American Woodworker Editors — Mon, 29 Apr 2013 17:57:00 GMT

Q & A: Warped Wood Woes

Q:

I ordered a milled piece of ebony through the mail last winter. It looked great upon arrival, but after a few days it was so warped and twisted that I couldn’t use it.What gives?

A:

Watching your prized ebony turn into a potato chip must’ve hurt! Chances are this board had a fairly high moisture content (10 to 12 percent) when it was shipped. It arrived in a dry winter environment,where wood can have a moisture content as low as 5 or 6 percent.Your board started to dry out as soon as you unwrapped it. Attempting to keep a board from changing shape while drying is a bit like trying to stop a glacier,but here are some things to try next time:

• Buy rough lumber. You’ll need a jointer and planer to mill it, but if you start out with thicker wood you’ll have more leeway if it warps.

• Use a moisture meter. Compare the moisture content of your new wood with old wood stored in your shop. Don’t mill your new wood until it’s about the same moisture content as the old stuff.

• Paint the ends.Wood dries out faster through its ends and can crack if it dries too fast. Paint slows down the rate at which end grain loses moisture.

• Stack your wood off the floor. Concrete floors can be very damp.

• Place stickers between the boards. All sides of your wood should be equally exposed to air so they dry at equal rates.

• Weight your boards. This helps keep them flat and straight, but it’s no guarantee. You’ve done about all you can do.

Click any image to view a larger version.

Stack and sticker mail-order wood as soon as it arrives.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker August 2001, issue #88.

August 2001, issue #88

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Pull Saw Miter Box

American Woodworker Editors — Tue, 23 Apr 2013 19:56:00 GMT

Pull Saw Miter Box

Short lengths of molding can be awkward—and sometimes dangerous—to cut with power tools. I’d rather cut them by hand, using a Japanese pull saw and a shop-made miter box.

Make the two guide blocks for the miter box from a 1-1/2" x 4" x 12" blank. (I glued two pieces of 3/4" plywood together.) Crosscut the blank in half on the tablesaw or with a miter saw. Next, using paper or playing cards, make up two spacers that are exactly equal to the thickness of your saw’s blade. (The blade of my saw is the same thickness as one playing card.)

To glue the blocks to a base, place the spacers between the blocks and clamp the blocks end-to-end. Next, clamp a straight, stout piece of wood across the front of the blocks to pull them into alignment. Finally, glue this assembly down to the base. Don’t remove the spacers until the glue is dry.

Q & A: Perfectly Flush?

American Woodworker Editors — Wed, 17 Apr 2013 19:45:00 GMT

Q & A: Perfectly Flush?

Q:

I recently bought a plate joiner in hopes that it would help me get perfect alignment when edge-to-edge gluing. I’m still getting some unevenness at the joints.What gives?

A:

Biscuits help considerably with alignment, but getting absolutely perfect alignment is unlikely.Having glued up what seems like acres of tabletops, I find that slight variations in wood thickness,minor warpage or loose-fitting biscuits can all throw off the joint. A slight tipping up or down of the plate joiner can also cause a misaligned joint.

You can overcome some of this misalignment during glue-up by tapping or pressing high spots into place before fully tightening the clamps. Otherwise it’s best to accept a slightly uneven joint and then sand or scrape it flush.

Another option is a spline joint. Use a slot cutter in your router. Then mill your own spline to fit. Because the spline joint runs the full length of the board, it offers very consistent alignment.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker June 2001, issue #87.

June 2001, issue #87

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Q & A: Slot Cutter vs. Plate Joiner

American Woodworker Editors — Mon, 08 Apr 2013 15:01:00 GMT

Q & A: Slot Cutter vs. Plate Joiner

Q:

I saw an ad for a slot-cutting router bit. I have a router and buying the bit instead of a plate joiner would save me a lot of money. Is there a downside to this cheaper option?

A:

It depends on what kind of joints you plan to make.A slot cutter does a good job with flat edge-to-edge or end-to-end joints (Photos 1, 2 and 3). Other joints can present some problems:

• A butt-corner joint (Photo 4) can be made, but requires the extra step of clamping a support board to the piece with the face slot.This gives your router a broader surface to rest on.

• On a tee-butt joint (Photo 5) you can rout the end slot but it is impossible to cut the face slot in the other board.

• A corner miter (Photo 6) is best handled using the slot cutter in the router table with an angled jig to hold the work. If your pieces are very big this can get quite cumbersome.

A plate joiner (photo below), on the other hand, will make all of these joints with ease. It also has built-in dust collection.

Click any image to view a larger version.

Cutting angle joints with a plate joiner is quick and easy. It’s possible, but awkward, to do this with a router.

Source

Note: Product availability and prices are subject to change.

Woodcraft, woodcraft.com, 800-225-1153, Biscuit slot-cutting router bit: 1/4-in. shank, #24D71, 1/2-in. shank, #24D72.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker June 2001, issue #87.

June 2001, issue #87

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Q & A: Why did my dovetail bit break?

American Woodworker Editors — Mon, 25 Mar 2013 17:52:00 GMT

Q & A: Why did my dovetail bit break?

Q:

I’ve snapped off the tips of my dovetail router bit twice now while cutting sliding dovetails in hard maple. I don’t want to get burned again. What am I doing wrong?

A:

A dovetail bit does indeed have fragile tips.A full cut in hard maple puts a lot of stress on them.Usually you can deepen a router cut with successive passes of the same bit, but the shape of a sliding dovetail doesn’t allow that.

You can relieve most of the stress on the bit’s tips by removing wood from the groove with a straight bit first. Pick a bit that’s slightly smaller than the narrowest part of the dovetail groove. Then rout a groove that’s 1/32-in. or so shallower than the final groove. Now your dovetail bit has very little work to do in finishing up the groove, and both you and your bit will experience less stress!

Click any image to view a larger version.

Give your dovetail bit a rest. Pre-plow a straight groove to remove most of the wood.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker February 2001, issue #85.

February 2001, issue #85

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Q & A: How do you cut curves in glass?

American Woodworker Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2013 18:08:00 GMT

Q & A: How do you cut curves in glass?

Q:

My up-and-coming star pitcher accidentally hurled her baseball through a glass pane in our family room hutch. Usually, I’d just get out my glass cutter and make a replacement pane, but this one’s arched! How the heck do I cut a new arched glass pane?

A:

Think positive—at least she didn’t bust the TV! And you can cut a new pane using only a standard glass cutter.

Reproduce your curved pane by taping together the broken glass or making a template of the pane using paper or cardboard.Place the pattern under the new glass.Use a sharp cutter lubricated with light machine oil (3-In-One works well). The oil prevents the wheel from getting stuck and skipping a spot.Grip the cutter like a pen and use a light, smooth stroke directly over the curved outline.Don’t go over the line twice! This dulls your cutter.The first score makes a “clean”crack.A deeper, second score will probably cause secondary cracks to spread from the first.

In addition to the curved score, make radial scores from the curve to the edge of the glass.After scoring the curved section, turn the glass over onto a flat surface and tap directly over the score with the ball on the end of the cutter. Buy extra glass and be prepared for some trial and error before you get it right.

Caution: Wear safety glasses at all times and leather gloves when handling the glass.

Click any image to view a larger version.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker February 2001, issue #85.

February 2001, issue #85

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Q & A: Are Broken Screws Removable?

American Woodworker Editors — Tue, 12 Mar 2013 17:32:00 GMT

Q & A: Are Broken Screws Removable?

Q:

Argh! I broke off a brass screw while installing a small hinge. Can I get it out?

A:

Join the club! Every woodworker has faced this problem.The best answer is to drill around the screw with a hollow bit, an unusual device with reverse teeth. Furniture repair guys used to painstakingly make these screw extracting bits themselves, but now we can buy three sizes for about $14 each from a mail-order catalog.

Here’s what you do: Buy a hollow bit with an inside diameter that’s larger than the screw. Use a drill press to make a perpendicular hole in a piece of scrap that’s the outside diameter of the hollow bit.This guide block keeps the bit from wandering.Clamp the guide block over the broken screw.Then chuck the hollow bit in a portable drill set to “reverse.”Drill around the screw.When you get near the bottom of the screw, it will unthread itself from the wood. (The hollow bit’s teeth are backward so they cut when the drill is in reverse.) Sounds too good to be true,but it really works! Plug the hole with a dowel.

Next time you use brass screws,drill a pilot hole first, then screw in a steel screw to thread the wood. Replace the steel screw with a brass one and lubricate it with a toilet wax ring or moist soap shavings.

Source

Note: Product availability and prices are subject to change.

Screw extractors:

Woodcraft, woodcraft.com, 800-225-1153, #124210, 1/4-in. outside dia, (removes up to #8 screw); #124211, 5/16-in. outside dia. (removes up to #10 screw); #124212, 3/8-in. outside dia. (removes up to #12 screw).

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker February 2001, issue #85.

February 2001, issue #85

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Q & A: Help! My router makes huge sparks!

American Woodworker Editors — Tue, 05 Mar 2013 19:48:00 GMT

Q & A: Help! My Router Makes Sparks!

Q:

When I run my router I see lots of small, blue sparks inside. Recently the sparks have grown larger. Is this OK?

A:

Nope. Small sparks are normal, but large sparks are an indication that your brushes are wearing short. That means your router is running inefficiently. It’s time to remove the brushes and possibly replace them.

The sparks are the electrical arcing of current from the brushes to the motor’s commutator (the large cylinder inside the housing). Large sparks mean the brushes are too short to be adequately held tight to the commutator by their springs. As a result, the motor has to work harder to make the electricity jump the gap between the brushes and commutator.

Every router has two brushes.To service them,unplug the router, remove the caps and pull out the brushes. If they are chipped, cracked or shorter than 1/4 in., replace them with ones made specifically for your router.To remove any carbon dust, use an air compressor or a can of compressed air to blow out the holes that house the brushes.Look into the holes with a flashlight. If the commutator is pitted or severely worn, it will need professional servicing. If the brushes are in good shape put them back in the same holes, in the same orientation and replace the caps. If you have installed new brushes, run your router for two to three minutes to fully seat them.Your router may “cough” and sputter a bit until it comes up to full speed, but that’s normal.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker February 2001, issue #85.

February 2001, issue #85

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Q & A: Why are new chisels so dull?

woodworkerBryan — Wed, 27 Feb 2013 17:12:00 GMT

Q & A: Why are new chisels so dull?

Q:

Whenever I buy a blade, like a tablesaw blade or a router bit, it’s always sharp.How come when I buy chisels they’re duller than a math lecture on the last day of school?

A:

Although it seems reasonable to expect new chisels to come sharp, there are three good reasons why they don’t.

First, sharpening is expensive. Some chisels do come presharpened, but they cost about $5 more per chisel.Would you be willing to pay for the first sharp edge when you’ll resharpen your chisel dozens of times?

Second, the roughly ground edge on a new chisel is actually a useful secondary bevel.At 25 degrees, it’s a lower angle than the chisel is meant to cut at. Your job is to hone the chisel to the primary angle: 30 degrees. The manufacturer has saved you some time by giving you a lower angle so now you have only to hone the tip of the chisel.

Third, a sharp edge is fragile.Chances are it wouldn’t survive shipping and handling. With a dull edge, you know what you’ve got.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker February 2001, issue #85.

February 2001, issue #85

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Q & A: Dovetail Jig Set-Up

woodworkerBryan — Wed, 20 Feb 2013 16:29:00 GMT

Q & A: Dovetail Jig Set-Up

Q:

I’ve fallen in love with my dovetail router jig, but my big frustration is setting the depth of the dovetail bit each time. I’ve tried measuring how much the bit should stick out, but that’s awkward and I spend too much time on trial and error test cuts. Is there an easier way?

A:

Put away your ruler! Next time you cut dovetails, set your bit directly from a gauge on the jig’s mounting board. You’ll need a mounting board that’s about 8-in. longer than the jig.Cut a 1/8-in. deep-rabbet along one edge on the tablesaw, then attach the jig. Set up the jig and adjust the dovetail bit to its proper depth by trial and error.While holding the router base against the edge of the jig’s mounting board, cut a dovetail-shaped groove.

Next time you want to use the jig,simply extend the dovetail bit until it fits perfectly into the dovetail groove.You’re set!

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker December 2000, issue #84.

December 2000, issue #84

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17 Router Tips

woodworkerBryan — Tue, 19 Feb 2013 17:47:00 GMT

17 Router Tips

Flattening Wide Boards

A huge, wide board makes a stunning tabletop. If it won‘t fit through your planer, flattening that board can be a lot of hard work. You could use a belt sander, but it’s much easier to use your router.

To get started, you’ll need a large, flat surface, such as a big workbench or a hollow-core door. Lay the board on the bench and place shims underneath the board so it won’t rock. Next, mill two guide boards about 1-ft. longer than your workpiece. Screw or clamp them to the bench top an equal distance apart. Make a sliding carriage for your router from two 1-in. by 1-in. pieces of aluminum angle, and fasten them to two cleats.

Install a large-diameter bit in your router and you’re ready to go. Slide the router back and forth on the carriage, then advance the carriage down the length of the board.

Two Featherboards Ensure Accuracy

It’s best to use two featherboards when cutting narrow moldings in order to get a straight, smooth cut. However, it’s almost impossible to safely feed the stock all the way through. The solution: make the molding extra-long and leave some uncut wood on the end, to serve as a handle. When you’ve routed as far as possible, turn off the router, remove the piece and cut off the handle.

Straight Edges without a Jointer

Here’s a device for jointing boards using only a router. It’s a long straightedge equipped with clamps for holding a workpiece plus a durable metal edge for guiding a flush-trim bit. When not in use, it easily stores against a wall.

To make the straightedge, you’ll need an 8-ft.-long, 12-in.-wide piece of plywood, such as melamine shelving, an 8-ft.-long piece of 1-in. by 1-in. aluminum angle, 8 ft. of T-track, and some commercial clamps made for T-track or their shop-made equivalents (see Source, below).

Rout the plywood so the T-track and aluminum angle are flush with its surface. Epoxy the T-track into its groove; drill and countersink holes in the angle so you can screw it to the plywood.

To use the jig, clamp your board so its uneven edge just overhangs the straightedge, install a bottom-bearing flush-trim bit in your machine, and rout away.

A Better Way to Cut Small Moldings

It’s hard to keep thin or narrow stock from chattering while its being cut on the router table. For narrow strips such as this bead molding, it’s safer and easier to rout the profile on a wide board (Photo 1), then cut off the shaped edge on the tablesaw (Photo 2).

Chip-Free Bits

Spiral bits often make a smoother, more accurate cut than straight bits. An up-cut spiral bit pulls chips up and out, making it perfect for cutting mortises in solid wood. A down-cut bit pushes chips downward, ideal for making chip-free dados in plywood and melamine. (Down-cut bits are not recommended for use in a router table, however, because they can push the workpiece up off the table.) A compression bit has spirals running both ways, up and down, pulling chips toward the middle of the bit. It’s the best bit for routing the edges of plywood or melamine–you’ll get a chip-free surface on both sides.

Shape Thick Parts in Two Steps

The best way to make identical parts is to use a template and a top-bearing pattern bit. Most pattern bits aren’t very long, however, so you might think that you can’t use one for thick parts. You can, and here’s how: First, rout the bottom half of the part (Photo 1). Second, remove the part from the template and install a bottombearing flush-trim bit in your router (Photo 2). Adjust the bit’s height so its bearing rides on the surface created by the pattern bit, and you’re all set.

Four Dado Sizes with One Bit

Here’s a custom-made baseplate that saves setup time. Using just one bit, you can make four different dados.

Each side of the baseplate is progressively 1/16-in. farther away from the bit. You make one cut at the “0” setting, then rotate the router and baseplate to enlarge the dado. For example, if you use a 1/2-in. bit, you can also make 9/16-in., 5/8-in., and 11/16-in. wide cuts. Alternatively, you can make the baseplate with 1/32-in. or 1/64-in. progressions for fitting undersized plywood into dados.

Making the baseplate requires accurate layout. It’s best to make it slightly oversized at first and mount it on your router. Nibble away at its edges on the tablesaw until the dimensions are perfect.

Perfect Miter Joints

Some contractor-style tablesaws don’t do a very good job cutting miters when the blade is tipped over to 45 degrees. The blade shifts out of alignment just enough to produce a burnt or out-of-square edge. If you’ve experienced those problems, try using a chamfer bit, which always cuts a precise 45-degree angle.

Chamfer bits come in a variety of sizes. Here are a few tips that will improve your results:

Use your tablesaw or bandsaw to remove most of the waste before you rout. Your chamfer bit will perform best when it’s only removing a small amount of wood.
Cut your router table’s fences to make a zero-clearance opening around the bit. This prevents the workpiece from tipping into the bit as you cut.
Hold a backerboard behind the workpiece to prevent blow-out.

When you set up your router table, aim for leaving a point on the end of the workpiece, without shortening its length. You may adjust your fence or the bit’s height to achieve this result. Either way, the adjustment should be very small–but once you’re set, miters are fast and easy to cut.

Square Up a Large Top

How do you trim the end of a top that’s too large to crosscut on the tablesaw? Simple: use a router and a large pattern bit.

Before you rout, use a jigsaw to cut the end of the top close to its final length. (The less end grain you rout, the easier the job will be.) Next, find a piece of plywood or fiberboard that has two adjacent factory edges. This piece guides the router; the factory edges guarantee that your top will be square. It should be 2 to 3 in. longer than the width of the tabletop. Place the guide piece on a pencil line indicating the end of the tabletop. Clamp one side of the guide piece flush with the long edge of the top. Clamp a sacrificial block on the opposite side, tight to the tabletop, to prevent the end grain from splintering at the end of the cut.

You can use a standard 1/2-in. flush-trim bit for this technique, but that requires placing the guide piece under the top, which can be a hassle. A pattern bit makes setup much easier. You’ll get the best results by using a pattern bit that’s at least 1-in. dia. It makes a smoother cut in end grain than a bit with a smaller diameter.

Rigid Routing Sled

You can’t beat a sled and a toggle clamp for coping the ends of rails and stiles, but many sleds have a subtle problem that produces a misaligned joint. The problem is with the base, which is typically 1/4-in. thick. Pressure from the toggle clamp causes the base to bend, resulting in a rail that’s not evenly aligned with its mating stile. The answer is to add a board at the front of the sled, plus two top boards that bridge over the workpiece. This produces an absolutely rigid sled, and perfect joints.

Cutting Tenons on Long Boards

Let’s say you’re building a bed or dining table that requires very long rails. Cutting tenons on those rails can be unwieldy using a tablesaw, but it’s quite easy using a router and a set of parallel guide blocks. The guide blocks are just two large pieces of wood connected by a pair of alignment pins.

Cut your rails an inch or two longer than their final length. (The extra wood will support the router, preventing it from tipping.) Install a 1/2-in. dia. bit in your router and measure how far it cuts from the edge of the router’s baseplate. Mark the tenons, then clamp the guide blocks onto the rail. Make sure they’re square to the rail and set back the correct distance from the tenon’s shoulder.

You’re all set to rout both sides of the rail. Adjust the bit’s cutting depth to 1/16-in. less than the final depth you’ll need. Make a pass on both sides of the board, measure the thickness of the tenon, and gradually lower the bit until the tenon is the correct thickness. To cut the rest of the tenon’s width, unclamp the guide boards, move them closer to the rail’s end, re-clamp them, and rout another pass. Cut off the waste when you’re done.

Align Holes for a New Baseplate

Additional baseplates for your router can really come in handy–for spanning a wide distance, for example, or for use as an insert in a router table. Drilling the screw holes for fastening the baseplate to your router is a precision job, though, particularly if you want the bit to be located exactly in the center.

Special cone-pointed setscrews make the job easy (see Source, below). They come in various thread sizes; to determine what you need, take your baseplate screws to the hardware store and match them with an appropriate nut.

To center your baseplate, draw diagonal lines from corner to corner and drill a 1/4-in. hole where the lines meet. Chuck a 1/4-in. bit in your router. Install the pointed setscrews in your router base and slide the new baseplate over the bit. Tap the baseplate above each screw to make a dimple for centering a drill bit.

Ramp-up for easier starts

Next time you make a template for pattern routing, be sure to include a starting ramp. This provides a safe place for the router bit to contact the template before it starts cutting. Add an exit ramp on the far end of the template, too.

Plug-Trimming Router Base

Here’s a fast way to level screw-hole plugs. Make a new baseplate for your router using two pieces of 1/2-in. plywood or fiberboard. Adjust your router bit so it cuts a paper-thickness above the bottom of the baseplate, then rout the plugs. To make the plugs absolutely flush, sand them with a small piece of sandpaper wrapped around a hard block.

Box Fence for Big Bits

A large raised-panel bit should be treated with a certain amount of respect. Not only do you have to slow your router way down to reduce the speed of the bit’s outermost tips, but you’ve got to watch your fingers, too. Here’s a custom-made fence that will make this operation much less scary.

This fence is really just a large box with a plastic top and dust port, clamped to your router table. There’s a faceboard attached to the box’s front end that is adjustable up or down. Set it so that it bears down on your panel, like a featherboard, to produce a smooth cut.

Sandwich Clamp

Use a double-sided template to avoid tearout on a curved piece. By simply turning the template over and placing the handles on the other side, you can always cut downhill, following the wood’s grain direction.

No-Fuss Mortising Jig

Want a dirt-simple mortising jig? This one takes just a few minutes to put together, not the whole weekend. You’ll need a plunge router equipped with an edge guide.

First, clamp a 3- to 4-in.-square block to your bench. Fasten a 5-in.-long stop block to its side, near one end. Butt your workpiece up to the stop block and clamp your workpiece to the large block. (A large handscrew is ideal for this job because it has a deep reach.)

Lay out your mortise on the workpiece and adjust the router’s edge guide so the bit cuts within the layout marks. Finally, add two stop blocks on top of the big block to limit the back-and-forth movement of your router. These blocks define the mortise’s length. If your mortises are centered, go ahead and cut all of them. If they’re offset, simply change the fence setting as needed. Our cover shows this jig in action.

Q & A: Rusty Router Collets

American Woodworker Editors — Tue, 05 Feb 2013 18:33:00 GMT

Q & A: Rusty Router Collets

Q:

Returning to my shop after working outside this summer, I noticed a rusty film on my router collets and bits.What’s the best way to remove the rust without damaging the collets and bits?

A:

Use a synthetic steel wool or 3M Scotch-Brite pad. To clean a 1/2-in. collet, wrap the pad around a 1/4-in. dowel and spin it inside the collet. Clean the rust off the bit shanks by rubbing the pads around them. Do not use an emery cloth or sandpaper; you don’t want to remove any metal that could cause the bit to wobble later. Wipe the collet’s inside and the bit’s shank with a light, general-purpose grease, then wipe off the excess.A thin film of grease will remain in the surface to slow future rusting.

Click any image to view a larger version.

Clean rusty router collets with a dowel and synthetic steel wool.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker October 2000, issue #82.

October 2000, issue #82

Purchase this back issue.