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Many production shops use pocket-hole joinery to build cabinets because it's fast, easy and efficient. You don't need an armload of pipe clamps. There are no unsightly face-frame nail holes to fill. And you don't have to wait for glue to dry before you move on to the next step.
All these advantages are a boon to the small home shop, too. In addition, pocket-hole joinery doesn't re-quire large, stationary machinery. Everything you need can be stored in a drawer. Pocket holes are amazingly simple to make. All you need is a drill, a drilling jig and a special stepped drill bit. Kreg Tool Co., which specializes in pocket-hole joinery systems, has some terrific new jigs and specialized clamps I'll show you. I'll also share some techniques that make pocket-hole joinery easier than ever.
What Is A Pocket Hole?
A pocket hole runs at a 15-degree angle. It's created by a stepped drill bit guided by a jig (see Tip 1, below). The bit's leading end makes a pilot hole; the rest of the bit enlarges the pilot hole to accept the screw's head, forming a counterbore.
Pocket-hole joinery uses specialized screws. They're hardened to prevent the screw from snapping and the head from stripping out. They have self-tapping ends, so you don't have to drill another pilot hole into the mating piece. Screws with fine threads are designed for hardwoods. Screws with coarse threads are designed for softwoods, plywood, particleboard and MDF. A combination thread is also available for general-purpose use. Pocket screws' heads have a large, flat bottom to help pull the parts together.
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TIP 1: Drill Holes Faster
My favorite new pocket-hole jig has a slick attachment for a vacuum hose. I can just hear you saying, "Who cares about a little drilling dust?" Well, I was skeptical, too, until I tried it. I can drill much faster with the vacuum attached because I don't have to remove the bit to clear chips. In addition, the bit never clogs, and there's no mess to clean up.
The vacuum attachment is part of the new Kreg K3 Master System (see Source, page 4). It's also available as an upgrade kit to the Kreg Standard Pack. The Master System has a new front-mounted toggle clamp that makes setting up a board for drilling super easy. (The toggle clamp is mounted in the rear on older Kreg models.) |
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Tip 8: Install Bottoms And Shelves
You don't have to fuss with dadoes or rabbets when you use pocket screws to join bottoms and shelves. Drill holes on the underside to keep them out of sight. I use two Right Angle Clamps and drill the outer holes in pairs. During assembly, I work from the outside in. I align the shelf by putting clamps in the innermost side-by-side holes, and then put screws in the other holes.
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Tip 9: If You Can't Hide 'Em, Plug 'Em
No doubt about it, a cabinet full of pocket-screw holes doesn't look attractive. If the holes will show, you sure won't want to drill them on the cabinet's outside. They should go inside instead, where you can fill them with plugs. Premade tapered plugs are available in seven different wood species (see Source, below). Glue them in the holes and sand them flush. For melamine cabinets, use plastic plugs. Their caps cover the holes so sanding is unnecessary. You can also use plastic plugs in wood cabinets. |
Source
Kreg Tool Co., (800) 447-8638,
www.kregtool.com K3 Master System, #K3MS, $150. Standard Pack, #K3SP, $80. Upgrade kit, #K3UP, $70. Bench Klamp, #KBK, $35. Right Angle Clamp, #RAC, $25. Solid-wood plugs and caps,
50 plugs for $7, 50 caps for $8.