Reviews

Multipurpose Clamp Aids

2013-05-31T16:05:00Z

Multipurpose Clamp Aids

By Brad Holden

The "universal clamping block" really lives up to its name. It’s just a flat aluminum bar with a loop on one end, yet it can be used to clamp a mitered frame, a workpiece on a drill press, the sides of a mitered cabinet and more. It’s the kind of simple tool that makes you mutter, “Why didn’t I think of that?”

Let’s look at the mitered frame operation. You can put direct pressure across a joint of almost any angle using two Universal Clamping Blocks, due to their round loops. A series of ridges on the Blocks keep them from slipping. Of course, the ridges may dent your wood, in which case you just slip a neoprene pad between the Block and the workpiece. (Pads are included with the Blocks.)

On a drill press, the Blocks work like cantilevered hold-downs. You’ll just need to add T-bolts and knobs, which aren’t included. As for the cabinet with long miters, here’s where the hole in the loop comes in—it’s for a 3/4" o.d. pipe. To clamp that joint, you slide a number of Blocks onto the pipe, then clamp the outer blocks to the cabinet. To see how this works, and many other clever applications, visit the manufacturer’s website listed below.

Source

Blokkz, blokkz.com, 714-267-8440, 2 Universal Clamping Blocks (includes 2 neoprene pads), #UCB5R20.

Snap-On Soft Jaws

2013-05-21T15:35:00Z

Snap-On Soft Jaws

I’ve been using an old metal-working vise in my shop for years. Occasionally I really do need a metal-working vise, but most often I use it to hold drawer sides up high when cutting dovetails. Unfortunately the metal jaws can be a hazard to edge tools and they can mar the surface of the wood. I solved these problems by adding a pair of soft jaws to the vise. The jaws are just two pieces of pine with a couple holes for recessed rare earth magnets. The soft jaws literally snap in place to provide a non-marring clamp surface for my stock plus a non-threatening surface for my edge tools.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker January 2003, issue #98.

January 2003, issue #98

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Q & A: Slot Cutter vs. Plate Joiner

2013-05-03T17:42:00Z

Q & A: Slot Cutter vs. Plate Joiner

Q:

I saw an ad for a slot-cutting router bit. I have a router and buying the bit instead of a plate joiner would save me a lot of money. Is there a downside to this cheaper option?

A:

It depends on what kind of joints you plan to make.A slot cutter does a good job with flat edge-to-edge or end-to-end joints (Photos 1, 2 and 3). Other joints can present some problems:

• A butt-corner joint (Photo 4) can be made, but requires the extra step of clamping a support board to the piece with the face slot.This gives your router a broader surface to rest on.

• On a tee-butt joint (Photo 5) you can rout the end slot but it is impossible to cut the face slot in the other board.

• A corner miter (Photo 6) is best handled using the slot cutter in the router table with an angled jig to hold the work. If your pieces are very big this can get quite cumbersome.

A plate joiner (photo below), on the other hand, will make all of these joints with ease. It also has built-in dust collection.

Click any image to view a larger version.

Cutting angle joints with a plate joiner is quick and easy. It’s possible, but awkward, to do this with a router.

Source

Note: Product availability and prices are subject to change.

Woodcraft, woodcraft.com, 800-225-1153, Biscuit slot-cutting router bit: 1/4-in. shank, #24D71, 1/2-in. shank, #24D72.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker June 2001, issue #87.

June 2001, issue #87

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Blade Caddy

2013-04-26T13:41:00Z

Blade Caddy

Here’s a handy tote for scrollsaw blades that I fashioned from a scrap of 2x6, a piece of plywood, and two Peg-Board multiple-tool holders. I cut the curved tips off the multiple-tool holders with a hacksaw so they would sit flat against the plywood.

I attached the holders to the caddy with cable staples. These small plastic tubes are perfect for holding scrollsaw blades. I wrapped some masking tape around each tube and wrote the blade size on it.

Q & A: Restoring a Blued Chisel

2013-04-03T18:43:00Z

Q & A: Restoring a Blued Chisel

Q:

The first thing I did with my new grinder was to blue the edge of a chisel. Is there anything I can do to save it?

A:

Most woodworkers have faced this problem at some point. The only practical solution is to remove the discolored metal and regrind a new bevel.

Set the tool rest at 90 degrees to the face of the stone and gently grind away the blued edge. Think of it as turning your chisel into a screwdriver (see photo above). The advantage to flat grinding the end is that it leaves a thick edge to dissipate the heat generated when regrinding the bevel. Be sure to keep the edge square to the side of the chisel.

Regrinding the bevel will take time because a great deal of metal must be removed. Maintain a light touch, and be patient. Once the new bevel has been formed your chisel should be as good as new—just a little shorter.

Tip: To reduce the chance of blueing any more chisels, try using white or pink 60-grit aluminum-oxide wheels which grind cooler. You’ll pay about $20 at Garrett Wade, (800) 221- 2942; Highland Hardware, (800) 241- 6748; or Woodcraft, (800) 225-1153.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker August 1999, issue #74.

August 1999, issue #74

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Q & A: Low-Angle Planes Provide Versatility

2013-03-21T17:40:00Z

Q & A: Low-Angle Planes Provide Versatility

Q:

What advantage does a low-angle bench plane have over a standard bench plane?

A:

Low-angle bench planes allow you to change the blade’s effective cutting angle to suit specific tasks. Because the bevel points up on a low-angle plane, the effective cutting angle can be varied based on the iron’s bevel angle. The bevel-up configuration also means the plane blade is fully supported right up to the cutting edge. With the bevel down, the cutting edge remains unsupported along the bevel, which can lead to blade chatter (Fig. A, below).

To get the most out of your low-angle bench plane, it’s best to have two or three blades on hand with various bevel angles already ground on them (Fig. A). A 25-degree bevel ground on the cutting iron will produce a low cutting angle of 37 degrees that’s ideal for shaving end grain (see photo, above). A 35-degree bevel approximates the 45-degree cutting angle on a standard bench plane, which is best-suited for general planing tasks. A 50-degree bevel creates a high cutting angle of 62 degrees for more of a scraping cut that reduces tearout on squirrelly grained wood, such as bird’s-eye maple.

Click any image to view a larger version.

Fig. A: Exploded View

The cutting angle is simply the sum of the bevel angle and the plane-bed angle or pitch. The pitch of a low-angle bench plane is 12 degrees, but its effective cutting angle can be varied based on the iron’s bevel angle. Standard bench planes usually have a pitch of 45 degrees, often referred to as common, or York, pitch. Since the plane is bevel down, the effective cutting angle remains at 45 degrees no matter what angle is ground on the bevel.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker December/January 2007, issue #126.

December/January 2007, issue #126

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How to Buy a Bandsaw

2013-03-05T21:00:00Z

How to Buy a Bandsaw

This workhorse is one of the four basic stationary tools in most shops, and can greatly expand the kinds of projects you can build.

A bandsaw can rip, crosscut, resaw and handle curves, angles and compound cuts. This workhorse is one of the four basic stationary tools in most shops, and can greatly expand the kinds of projects you can build.

The Family

Bandsaws are sized by the diameter of their wheels. This measurement is roughly the same as the throat capacity, which determines the widest cut you can make (Photo 1). Bandsaws for the small shop have wheels ranging from 10 to 18 in. in diameter, with 14 in. as the most common.

Features

When shopping for a bandsaw, we suggest you look especially at these features:

- Frame: Bandsaws come in one of two frame styles; cast iron and welded steel (Photo 2). A welded-steel frame does the best job of absorbing vibration under a heavy cutting load.

- Base: A sturdy base helps control vibration as well. For this reason, we favor the closed- and floor-base styles over the open- and panel-base models (Photo 3).

- Motor: A 3/4-hp motor is good for most operations, if you primarily cut stock under 3-in. thick. If you regularly cut thicker stock or do a lot of resawing, go for at least a 1-hp. motor.

- Riser Blocks: On some 14-in. bandsaws, a riser block increases cutting capacity from 6 to 12 in. (Photo 4). This is a great option if you want to use your bandsaw for resawing, cutting bowl blanks, or making lumber out of logs.

- Guides: Block-style guides (Photo 5) are easy to adjust and use. Replacing the stock-metal guide blocks with aftermarket synthetic blocks, such as Cool Blocks, is a good idea. These blocks can be adjusted closer to the blade for better support and enable you to use blades as narrow as 1/16 in. Euro-style guides (Photo 6) are great for supporting wide blades and for heavy bandsaw work, such as resawing. They can be difficult to use with blades less than 1/4-in. wide.

- Switches, Wheel Covers and Tensioning Knobs: Column-mounted switches are the most convenient. Changing or checking the blade is quicker with wheel covers that are hinged rather than removable. Tensioning knobs that extend above the top wheel housing (Photo 7) are easy to use and prevent skinned knuckles.

- Height Adjustments and Guards: Height adjustment is easiest on machines with rack-and-pinion guards (Photo 8). This setup also keeps the guard from crashing to the table when the locking knob is loosened. Some saws use a spring-loaded, anti-slip guide post to keep the guard from falling when the locking knob is loosened.
Guards come in one-piece, telescoping and two-piece styles. We found the one-piece and the telescoping to be the easiest to use.

- Dust Collection: For general use, a 2-1/4-in. dust port hooked up to a shop vacuum will suffice. If you do a lot of resawing, look for a bigger port and hook it up to a dust collector.

Saving Space and Money

Buy a benchtop bandsaw if you’re really cramped for floor space or on a tight budget. Benchtops typically have less sawing capacity, but are fine for small projects.

1. Throat capacity determines maximum width of cut. Thickness capacity determines how thick a board you can cut or resaw.

2. During heavy resawing the welded-steel frame (left) generally resists vibration better than most bandsaws with cast-iron frames (right).

3. There are four common base styles. The floor- and closed-base models are sturdier and absorb vibration better than the panel- or open-base models.

4. A riser block can be added to some 14-in. bandsaws. It’s an inexpensive (less than $100) way to increase resaw capacity from 6 to 12 in.

5. Block-style guides are easy to adjust and work well with narrow blades.

6. Euro-style guides work well with 1/4 in. and wider blades.

7. User-friendly features like a column-mounted switch, an easy-to-reach tensioning knob and hinged wheel covers are all worth looking for.

8. Rack-and-pinion height adjustment makes raising and lowering the guard easy.

All About Vises

2013-03-01T17:28:00Z

All About Vises

Add clamping power to your workbench.

By Randy Johnson and Tom Caspar

A good vise is tool money well spent. It’s a solid investment in your workbench that pays off every time you need to hold a piece of wood.

Two Types of Vises

Everybody’s familiar with the standard metal-jaw vise,but there’s a second type of vise to consider: the wood-jaw vise. Here’s a quick comparison:

Metal-jaw vises are easy to install (Photo 1). To drop the jaws slightly below the top of your bench, make a wooden plate that fits between the bottom of the bench and the vise body. If you want the inner jaw of the vise to be flush with the edge of your bench (the set-up we prefer), you’ll have to cut a notch out of your benchtop. In any case, add wood cheeks.

Wood-jaw vises generally come as starter kits (Photo 2).You buy the metal Add clamping power to your workbench. hardware and make the front jaw, an optional lower rear jaw and turn or buy the handle. If you want a traditional look to your bench, this is the way to go. The front edge of your bench must be straight and square because it serves as the rear jaw.

Features

Vises are built to last. Every vise we tested delivered plenty of clamping pressure and was robust enough to hold up to a lifetime of service. If you’re going to spend your woodworking career with one vise, it makes sense to buy one that’s a pleasure to use. Here are the features we feel make the most difference:

● Jaw Size. Large jaws offer more surface area to hold your workpiece.More surface area means more friction to keep your work from slipping. You can increase the effective surface area of any metal-jaw vise by adding oversized cheeks,but we prefer vises that start out with large jaws.

For a wood-jaw vise you can make virtually any size jaws.Use a stiff wood such as hard maple and make the front jaw 3-in. thick.

● Jaw Opening. Rarely will you open your vise all the way, but a deep capacity gives you more clamping versatility. The day will come when you’ll need it! Some metal-jaw vises have a huge capacity, but wood-jaw vises generally have shorter openings after allowing for the thickness of the jaws.

● Quick Release. Sliding the front jaw in and out without turning the handle is convenient but not a feature you’re likely to use often.Almost all the metaljaw vises offer one of two types of quick release. They all work well. It’s a matter of personal preference, but we like the lever action best (Photo 3).

Most of the wood-jaw vises do not have a quick release, but two offer the reverse action type (Photo 4).

● Vise Dog. You can hold work on top of your bench with the vise dog that’s found on every metal-jaw vise (Photo 5). Friction-fit, spring-loaded dogs are the easiest to use.

You’ll have to make your own dog hole in the front jaw of a wood-jaw vise. One pre-made kit includes the dog hole.

● Handle. You’ll be using it a lot, so a handle ought to be comfortable. Some metal-jaw vises have large-diameter handles that are easier to grip than the rod-type handles.

To fine-tune the amount of pressure a vise is exerting, a handle should have a long “throw” (the distance from the center of the screw out to the handle’s tip). Regardless of the amount of throw, all the vises have plenty of clamping power.

Choose your own handle length with a wood-jaw vise. The handle must be a fairly large diameter to fit into the socket.

Fig. A-C: Top-to-Bottom Racking

Fig. A: The Problem

Fig. B: Manufacturer's Solution

Fig. C: The Shop Solution

Fig. D-F: Side-to-Side Racking

Fig. D: The Problem

Fig. E: Manufacturer's Solution

Fig. F: The Shop Solution

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker October 2000, issue #82.

October 2000, issue #82

Purchase this back issue.

Click any image to view a larger version.

1. A metal-jaw vise is ready to go right out of the box. Add wood cheeks, bolt it to your bench and you’re ready to clamp.

2. A wood-jaw vise requires assembly. Make your own jaws and turn a handle of any length (or buy one).The front of the bench doubles as the upper half of the rear jaw.

3. Squeeze the lever on this quick-release mechanism to slide the front jaw in or out.The spring-loaded lever is connected to a bar that releases the nut from the vise’s screw. We prefer this type of quick release.

4. Reverse the handle one-half turn for another type of quick release.This action releases the nut.To engage the nut, turn the handle clockwise. One metal-jaw and two wood-jaw vises have this feature.

5. Hold a board on top of the bench with a vise dog. All metal-jaw vises come with dogs. Make your own dog hole in a wood-jaw vise.

Types of Handles

Large-diameter handles are comfortable to grip. One metaljaw vise comes with a short metal handle (below, left), while two others have longer wooden handles (below, right), similar to what you’d add to a wood-jaw vise.

Long metal-rod handles give you more leverage and a more sensitive adjustment (below, right).We find short metal-rod handles or those with capscrew ends (below, left) less comfortable.

The Wilton Vise

Two features set this vise apart from the others:

● Pivoting Jaw. It’s perfect for holding tapered work. Raise up the pivoting jaw to make a huge dog. Remove a pin, slide off the jaw and you’ve got a standard vise.

● U-Channel Guide Bar. You can place your workpiece very close to the screw, minimizing side-to-side racking. The channel also protects the screw from damage.

What's the deal with racking?

When your workpiece slips in a vise, blame “racking.”Before you tighten a vise, the jaws are more or less parallel, but when you apply pressure the front jaw can noticeably tilt or twist. That’s called racking, and it results in unbalanced pressure on your work (Figs.A and D).

Some amount of racking is present in every vise, but some suffer more than others.Vise manufacturers have two tricks up their sleeves to combat racking (Figs. B and E). Just as good are the solutions that woodworkers have used since the days of sloppy fitting all-wood vises (Figs. C and F).

Adjustable Tongue-and-Groove Set

2013-02-14T19:05:00Z

Adjustable Tongue-and-Groove Set

Lots of tongue-and-groove router bit sets are designed for 3/4-in. material. They cut 1/4-in. tongues and 1/4-in. grooves. A new bit set from Freud ($70) is adjustable. So why is this a big deal? Adjustability means you can use this set for stock from 1/2-in. to 1-1/4-in. thick.

You can make grooves (and matching tongues) from 7/32-in. to 3/8-in.wide in .004-in. increments, by slipping shims between the cutters.Each bit has its own set of shims.According to Freud, the tongues and grooves will match as long as you shim each bit by the same amount.

Tongue-and-groove joints can be used for mounting breadboard ends on tables or to make cabinet doors. When making doors, the adjustable slot cutter is great because you can adjust it to make grooves that fit 1/4-in. plywood,which is almost always less than 1/4-in. thick.

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker February 2002, issue #92.

February 2002, issue #92

Purchase this back issue.

14 Great Little Tools

2013-01-02T20:46:00Z

14 Great Little Tools

Time-tested and woodworker-approved, here are some of our favorite workaday tools

By George Vondriska

“What tools do I need for my shop?” This has to be one of the most common question in woodworking. The answer usually starts with the big power tools: tablesaw, jointer, router, planer. But what about those everyday tools we take for granted? You know, the kind that cause you to turn to a shopmate and say, “This is a great little tool.”

I polled the American Woodworker editors and compiled a list of some of our favorite tools. Most of the picks cost less than $100—way less. Here, in no particular order, is a short list of time-tested, woodworker-approved, great little tools.

Marking Gauge

Marking gauges are handy for all kinds of marking needs. Use one to scribe a line on a drawer side to locate mechanical slides or mark the depth of dovetails. I also use a marking gauge to lay out a board for resawing. After setting the gauge by eye to approximately the middle of the board, scribe a line with the gauge indexed off of one face and then scribe a second line with the gauge indexed off the opposite face. This almost always gives me a pair of lines that form a perfect track for my bandsaw blade to travel in as I resaw. If my eyes are really on the money, I get a single fat line to follow.

Source

Lee Valley, leevalley.com, 800-871-8158, Veritas Micro-Adjust Marking Gauge, #05N35.10, $36.50.

Rabbet Plane

A rabbet plane has an iron that goes all the way to the edge of the body so you can plane up to a shoulder. It’s the perfect choice to shave down a tenon for a snug fit. The Stanley 93 shown here is actually two planes in one. Loosen the knurled knob at the top and the lower unit drops out as a chisel plane. On a chisel plane, the blade sticks out the front, which makes it ideal for removing glue, cleaning up the corners in a hinge mortise or trimming plugs. This tool may not fall into your daily-use category, but when you need it, you can’t beat it.

Source

Highland Hardware, highlandwoodworking.com, 800-241-6748, Stanley 93 Rabbet/Chisel Plane, #431805, $130.

Self-Centering Drill Bit

Self-centering drill bits are the best way to locate screws in hardware. The tapered nose of the bit nestles into the countersunk screw hole in the hardware. Just run the drill and push the bit into your work. The pilot hole is perfectly centered every time. Various sizes are available to match the size of the screws you’re using.

Source

Woodcraft Supply, woodcraft.com 800-225-1153, Set of Three Self-Centering Bits, 5/64 in., 7/64 in. and 9/64 in., #16I40, $29.

Pocket-Size Sprayer

Use a pocket-size sprayer when just a little dab will do ya. Got a touch-up to do? Fill the jar with finish, screw on the aerosol can, and let it fly. One can will spray about 16 oz. of liquid. This is also an easy way to make samples with different stains and finishes before you do the real thing. Sure beats cleaning out a whole spray-gun assembly for each sample.

Source

Woodcraft Supply, woodcraft.com 800-225-1153, Preval Spray Gun, Jar and Power Unit, #142198, $5.50.

Sliding Protractor

A sliding protractor can’t be beat for measuring angles. I use it to check the bevels on my plane irons and chisels. The skinny arm not only pivots to indicate the angle but can be adjusted for length by loosening the knurled lock knob. I’ve used a sliding protractor to set the table on my drill press to drill angled holes for spindles in chair seats. The sliding arm can also be used to measure the depths of holes or mortises, even if they are cut at an angle.

Source

MSC Industrial Supply, mscdirect.com, 800-645-7270, Sliding Protractor, #06475198, $22.75.

Low-Angle Block Plane

A low-angle block plane is great for fine-tuning misaligned parts. With its low cutting angle, you can even skin gossamer shavings off of end grain. This small-bodied plane fits comfortably in one hand, allowing you to hold the part being planed with the other. It’s even small enough to travel around in your apron pocket, so it’s always right at hand when you need it.

Source

Lee Valley, leevalley.com, 800-871-8158, Apron Plane, #05P27.01, $85.

Diamond Paddle

Diamond paddles can help you touch up an edge on a tired router bit. The paddles are embedded with industrial diamonds—abrasives that can sharpen carbide. The Hone and Stone paddle shown is small enough to fit under the flutes of a router bit and in your pocket. You can also use the paddles to freshen the edges on drill bits, hone scrapers, sharpen your pocket knife—you’ll find many uses for this handy little tool.

Source

Eze-Lap, eze-lap.com, 800-843-4815, Hone and Stone Diamond Paddle, Fine or Super-Fine Grade, $4.95 ea.

Trim Router

A trim router allows routing with one hand. It makes quick work of rounding over cabinet parts. One-handed operation allows you to hold the piece in one hand and run the router with the other. The one-handed operation and small stature are also real boons if you need to manipulate the router in an awkward spot.

Source

Home centers and woodworking stores ($100-$200).

Card Scraper

A card scraper may not be much to look at, but it provides an indispensable way to remove tissue-paper-thin shavings. Worried about sanding through a veneer? Try a scraper. Tired of sanders that are noisy and raise lots of dust? Try a scraper. There’s an art to sharpening it, but once you master that, you’ll reach for this tool often.

Source

Lie-Nielsen Tool Works, lie-nielsen.com, 800-327-2520, Hand Scraper Set, #HSset, $15.

Sliding Bevel

A sliding bevel is one of the best ways to transfer angles from one surface to another. The blade slides and pivots within the head and can be locked with a turn of a lever or thumb screw. The sliding bevel works great for laying out dovetails. With the blade extended out both sides of the handle, you can flip-flop the bevel as you scribe each angled side of a pin or tail.

Source

Home centers and woodworking stores ($20 to $50, depending on size).

Paint Scraper

A 1-in. paint scraper may not be considered a traditional woodworking tool, but it can’t be beat for scraping a glue joint. Grind or file a burr edge on the blade and this little paint scraper is capable of much more than simply scraping glue. Use it to shave hardwood edge banding or face frames flush with veneered panels. Its size makes it easy to control and the flared blade allows you to get right into corners.

Source

Home centers and woodworking stores (about $5).

Small Lithium-Ion Drill

Palm-size lithium-ion drills are small but powerful little tools. Instead of grabbing a monster drill/driver, try one of the little ones, like the Skil ixo. It’ll fit in the pocket of your apron, so it’s there when you need it. The lithium-ion battery packs a lot of power in a smaller package than NiMh or NiCad batteries. This little drill can drive screws as long as 1-1/2 in., but it really shines on such tasks as mounting drawer guides and door hinges. Plus it fits in tight spaces where other drills can’t go.

Source

Home centers and hardware stores (Skil iXO, about $40).

Engineer's Square

A small engineer’s square is ideal for quickly checking project pieces for square. Use it to create layouts, check cuts fresh off your miter saw, set the 90-degree stop on your tablesaw or square the fence on your jointer to the table. Carry this little square around in your apron pocket and I guarantee you’ll reach for it all the time. By checking as you build, you’ll avoid aggravating mistakes that cause problems at assembly time.

Source

Woodcraft Supply, woodcraft.com 800-225-1153, Engineer’s Square, 2-in. Blade, #141013, $15.99.

Flush-Cut Saw

A flush-cut pull saw is great for trimming off dowels you’ve left proud. The blade bends enough that you can keep it flat on your work while bringing the handle up to a comfortable angle. The fine teeth leave a smooth cut and won’t score your work. Still, I recommend laying down a playing card just in case.

Source

Home centers and hardware stores (Stanley flush-cut saw, about $18).

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker Dec/Jan 2007, issue #126.

Dec/Jan 2007, issue #126

Purchase this back issue.

Laser Woodworking

2012-12-04T14:55:00Z

Laser Woodworking

A pioneering craft for the 21st Century.

By Andrew Zoellner

Each generation, a new technology in woodworking enables us to work faster, with more precision and more creativity. Carbide-tipped bits and a whole new set of portable power tools, for example, have improved how we work and what we build. For the next generation, CNC lasers may also be one of those tools that transform our shops.

I’m a young, 21st Century woodworker. When Epilog, a maker of CNC lasers, asked me to try out the Helix , a mid-size machine from the Legend Elite series, I jumped at the chance. What can it do? How does it work? How far can I push it? Dozens of questions came up. I’ll introduce you to what I found, but one thing I’ll tell you up front: There’s way more to this technology than meets the eye. After days of experimenting, I only scratched the surface.

What is a CNC laser?

To understand a CNC laser, think of it as having two components. First, there’s the CNC (computer numerically controlled) part. You’re probably familiar with CNC machines–they’re common in factories, and are making their way into small woodworking shops, too. In woodworking applications, a CNC usually controls a router. OK, let’s replace that router bit with a highintensity beam of light–a laser. That’s the second part of the machine.

Consider a CNC laser as a type of printer. A computer program moves the machine’s head. But the head shoots a laser, instead of ink.

What can a laser do?

A CNC laser’s beam essentially heats and vaporizes the wood it contacts. By adjusting the intensity of the light, you can determine the depth that it cuts. Usually, the waste is just reduced to smoke, but when the laser is set on high, you may even create a small fl ame!

You can fine-tune the depth-of-cut however you wish, but think of it as having three levels: shallow, medium and deep. They correspond to three diff erent applications: engraving, relief carving and pattern cutting.

Lots of folks have bought a CNC laser for engraving things like nametags, keychains and other quickly personalized trinkets. It’s a great small business–there’s one in virtually every city in the country. You can copy your own images or download them from the Internet. Basically, any image that can be digitized can be engraved.

Cutting deeper into the wood with a laser creates a threedimensional eff ect, similar to lowrelief carving. The laser is extremely precise. You can create very intricate patterns, perfect for medallions, awards, moldings or any design that will embellish a project.

Cutting deeper yet, you can go all the way through a relatively thin piece of solid wood or plywood (up to 3/8" on the Helix I tested). You’re not making images anymore–you’re making shapes. Lasers are commonly used to make wooden clock parts, dollhouse furniture, models, 3-D animal sculptures and more. For workshop applications, you can use a laser to create extremely accurate plywood templates, based on CAD drawings, for shaping parts on a router table. You could also use a laser for intarsia, marquetry or scroll-saw patterns.

That’s just the tip of the iceberg. There’s a wide community of Epilog users online (www.EpilogLaser.com), supported and encouraged by Epilog to push the boundaries of what a laser can do. If you buy a laser for woodworking, or rent time on one, consider yourself a pioneer. Many applications have yet to be discovered!

How does the laser work?

The Epilog’s laser tube is located in back of the machine. The beam of high-energy light passes through a series of mirrors and lenses to a CNC-controlled head, which moves in an X/Y plane (Photo 1). The head moves in a totally sealed and safe compartment containing the workpiece.

The Epilog interfaces with your computer much like a printer. After you’ve set up your project in Corel Draw, the software included with the Epilog (which can be used with a wide variety of graphic-editing programs), you hit print and bring up a print driver screen, which Eplilog refers to as the dashboard (Photo 2). The dashboard is where you make your adjustments. The most important are speed (how fast the laser moves over your material) and intensity (how strong the laser is, and how deep it will cut). Once you’ve zeroed in on your settings for a particular project, you can save and recall them at any time.

What does the Epilog require?

On the hardware side, you’ll need a computer to run the Epilog. You’ll also need an exhaust system, to remove particulates and odor from the machine’s exhaust (Photo 3). Most users in a fi xed installation opt to exhaust the fumes out of their shop with a hose or ductwork, but portable fi ltration units are available for mobile applications (like shows and fairs). Most lasers and fi ltration units only need 120-volt circuits.

On the software side, the Epilog is designed to empower even a novice computer user to get started creating quickly. You don’t have to be an expert! Having grown up in the information age, that part of the operation didn’t faze me, but I was surprised to see how easy the software was to use at its most basic levels.

Types of Epilog lasers

Epilog has two lines of lasers: Zing and Legend Elite. The major diff erences between the lines are capacity (the size and depth of the bed), power (expressed in watts) and resolution (dots per square inch).

The Zings are entry-level lasers with smaller beds and lower-power, capable of cutting through 1/4" wood.

The Legend Elite series lasers have a larger capacity, more powerful beams capable of cutting through wood up to 3/8" thick. Legend series lasers can also engrave at a faster speed than the Zings.

Both lines of lasers have a repeatability of ±.0005". Zing series machines engrave up to 1000 dpi; the Legend series goes up to 1200 dpi.

The Helix I tried out has a 24" x 18" bed, a 60-watt laser. The exhaust system we used is about $3,000.

The bottom line

An Epilog is an investment, no doubt about it. But it can be the foundation of a profi table small business or the tool that propels your woodworking to an entirely new level. To fi nd out more about laser woodworking, contact your local Epilog distributor. He can probably locate an Epilog in your area and help you contract some work or rent some time on the machine. After seeing how quick and easy it is to personalize a project or engrave an intricate design, you just might catch the laser bug. Our photographer sure did–he achieved some remarkable results (Photo 4).

This story originally appeared in American Woodworker August/September 2010, issue #149.

August/September 2010, issue #149

Purchase this back issue.

Click any image to view a larger version.

What A Laser Can Do

Engraving: The Epilog can burn a shallow picture or drawing on wood. You can reproduce any digital image, including your own photo or sketch.

Relief Carving: The Epilog can also be set to burn deeper, for shallow relief carving. A laser can quickly and precisely duplicate intricate patterns.

Pattern Cutting: Set to full strength, the Epilog can cut all the way through material. You can duplicate parts large or small, such as these interlocking puzzle pieces.

Inlay: Using pattern cutting and relief carving techniques, the Epilog can cut out an inlay and the recess in which it fi ts.

How It Works

1. The Epilog laser’s head moves like a printer. It will scan back and forth or follow a continuous line, depending on how it’s programmed.

2. The Epilog’s settings are adjusted in a printer driver window on your computer. By adjusting rate, frequency, intensity and other parameters, a variety of materials can be engraved or cut.

3. The laser beam produces smoke and fumes, so you’ll also need an external exhaust system or a portable fi ltration unit.

4. The future for CNC laser woodworking is wide open. This shallow relief carving, based on a photo of a tree, cuts through one layer of plywood to reveal the layer below. It’s a beautiful effect that we found with creative experimentation.

See more fantastic examples of laser woodworking!

Visit Jason Zentner's blog and find out how he puts this next-gen tool to use. Just look at his laser-cut toy car grill!

Well-Equipped Shop - High-Tech Handsaws

2012-11-19T18:40:00Z

High-Tech Handsaws

Unplug the machines, relax and get ready for a good time with one of the oldest woodworking tools around: the handsaw. It’s just you, the saw and the wood. Of course, you’ll want a tool that is comfortable, well-balanced and super-sharp. Those qualities exactly describe two new saws from Lee Valley.

These saws—a 12 tpi rip and a 14 tpi crosscut—are designed for general joinery work. We like them best for cutting tenons. You use the ripsaw for cutting the cheeks, as shown above, and the crosscut for cutting the shoulders.

Both saws have high-tech composite spines, pistolgrip handles and 11" long blades. The set is only 0.003" on each side. With the kerf hardly wider than the blade, it’s easy to stay on track. In trying out these saws, we were surprised to see how our skills improved just by using such high-quality tools. We’re sure that yours will, too.

Source

Lee Valley, leevalley.com, 800-871-8158, Veritas Rip Carcass Saw, 05T07.05, $69; Veritas Crosscut Carcass Saw, 05T07.01, $69.

Well-Equipped Shop - Dust-Collection Upgrade

2012-11-05T17:12:00Z

Dust-Collection Upgrade

Most router tables need better dust collection. They usually have a port on the fence, but that’s only half the battle. What about all the dust that’s thrown below the table? Rockler has an answer—actually, two answers: the Dust Bucket, which encloses your router, and the Dual Port, a tee that allows you to hook up a 4" hose to both the Dust Bucket and the fence’s port.

Properly sizing the enclosure around a router is essential for good dust collection. If you have a cabinet below your router table hooked up to a dust-collection hose, you’ve probably noticed that the cabinet still fills up with dust. Why does this happen? Usually, the volume of the cabinet is too large. The air inside it isn’t moving fast enough, so the dust particles settle to the bottom. In order for the dust to remain suspended in the air you'd need an enclosure with a much smaller volume—such as the Dust Bucket.

The Dust Bucket is made from galvanized steel. It has a front door for accessing your router, a 4" port, keyhole slots for mounting to your table (so you can easily remove the unit) and a vent for controlling airflow. It measures 13" wide x 13" high x 10" deep.

Source:

Rockler, rockler.com, 800-279-4441, Dust Bucket Dust Collection for Router Tables, #32321, $79.99; Dust Right Router Table Dual Port, #20225, $14.99.

Well-Equipped Shop - Bits for Impact Drivers

2012-10-05T15:50:00Z

Bits for Impact Drivers

The best tool for tough screwing jobs is an impact driver. It has much more torque than the average cordless drill/driver. The next time you want to run screws into a piece of hardwood without drilling pilot holes, as when fastening a turning blank to a faceplate, reach for an impact driver.

But don’t grab the bit from your cordless drill. The tip will get rounded over or chip pretty fast because it’s not designed to take the constant pounding of an impact driver. Instead, you should reach for a special type of bit that can withstand these brutal conditions. Dedicated impact-driver bits are currently offered by Bosch, Craftsman, DeWalt, Makita and Milwaukee. All have 1/4" hex.

Sources

Bosch Tools, boschtools.com, 877-267-2499.

Craftsman, craftsman.com, 800-549-4505.

DeWalt, dewalt.com, 800-433-9258.

Makita, makita.com, 800-462-5482.

Milwaukee, milwaukeetool.com, 800-638-9582.

Clean Rusty Tools by Electrolysis

2012-09-25T14:26:00Z

Clean Rusty Tools by Electrolysis

Electrolysis is a gentle, safe way to chemically remove all the rust from small tools, and it leaves the iron untouched. An abrasive can remove rust, too, but it may require removing a large amount of metal, either weakening the piece or destroying its value. Here's what you need: A small battery charger, a plastic or glass container, washing soda (available in the laundry-detergent aisle at grocery stores), scrap iron, a charging clip and a couple feet of wire. Here's how it works: Follow the setup in Photo 1. The tool gets a negative charge and the scrap iron gets a positive charge.

1. Electrolysis is not a complex operation. Mix one tablespoon of washing soda in one gallon of water. Pour this solution over the tool until it is covered. Hook the charger's black negative clip to the tool using a length of 12-gauge wire and a charging clip. This keeps your charger lead out of the soup. The red clip must be hooked to a portion of scrap-iron rod that is out of the water, because it would be eaten away in the water. Wooden blocks suspend the tool so the bottom gets cleaned as well.

2. Bubbles indicate the process has started. Now all you have to do is wait until the bubbles stop. This plane iron took a day and a half.

3. The orange crud on top is all that rust fleeing from the negatively charged tool to the positively charged iron rod. This is a good thing. It looks terrible, but this nontoxic sludge can be poured down the drain.

The rust flees from the negatively charged tool and is attracted to the positively charged scrap iron. The cleaning action occurs only in a line-of-sight manner, so it's best if the scrap iron surrounds the tool. When you've wired the tool and scrap-iron rod, plug in the charger. The lowest setting is all you need. Bubbles mean it's working (Photo 2). Eventually, a reddish brown crud will appear on the water's surface (Photo 3). When bubbles no longer form on the tool, you're done. Clean the tool with water and a gray 3M finishing pad. Treat your restored tool to a coat of rust-inhibiting wax or spray.

Safety Considerations: Electricity and water can be dangerous. Keep the charger away from the water in case of an accidental spill. Unplug the charger prior to placing your hands in the water.

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14 Great Little Tools

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