Travel Humidor
A pull-apart box with a
silky-smooth fit.
By Suwat Phruksawan
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I've had a lot of fun over the years building boxes of
all shapes and sizes.This one was made as a travel humidor
for a friend. The box can just as easily be used for a travel
jewelry box, eyeglasses—you name it.Whatever its use, the
real crowd pleaser is the silky smooth sliding action as the
box is opened: it always brings a smile.
I like working on small-scale projects. Materials are easy
to find and afford. (I get my best wood from my scrap pile).
Working on a small scale gives me a chance to do more
handwork than time normally allows on a large project.
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I sized this humidor to fit three Corona cigars.
If you aren’t a cigar person, just eliminate the humidifier
and Spanish cedar. Then,modify the box dimensions to fit
eyeglasses, pens and pencils, jewelry—anything that needs
to be contained while bouncing around in a backpack,
purse or suitcase.
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Build the outer box from a single piece of Brazilian rosewood
that’s been resawn into thin boards. Size the pieces to fit the
objects you’ll be carrying.
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Click any image to view a larger version.
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Custom-fit the inner box by using the outer box as a form. Wax
paper prevents the boxes from sticking to each other and provides
the side clearance for a piston fit.
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Remove the inner box from the outer box and line it with
Spanish cedar. Be sure to use water-resistant glue.
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Drill air-escape holes in the end of the inner box.These holes
allow the boxes to slide smoothly past one another.
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Build a Plexiglas humidifier to keep the cigars fresh.
Assemble the box with plastic adhesive.
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Place wood blocks wrapped in wax paper inside the box.The
blocks support the walls when the inlay dadoes are cut and act as
a backer when the box is cut in two.
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Lay out the inlays on the box after the lid is glued on.The
inlay on the humidifier end of the box (the end with the washer)
is 1/16" wider. The extra width will be removed when the
box is cut open.
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Cut the grooves for the inlays.The groove in the top is extra deep
to allow for shaping the lid.
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Install the inlays. Start with the top piece, then add the side
pieces. Fit the bottom inlay last, to minimize exposed end
grain.
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Lay out the curve on the top with a piece of flexible steel.Hold the
steel at the center of the top and bend it to create the curve.
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Plane and sand the gentle curve on the top.
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Cut the box open with a single pass on the tablesaw.
Position the box so the blade is centered on the inner
glue-line of the wider inlay.
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Extract the support blocks by drilling a hole at a slight
angle. Stop the drill and pull out the blocks.
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Cut the recesses for the buttons with a brad point bit
then chisel them square.
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