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Tools and Materials
To build this clock, you’ll need a tablesaw, a planer, a router in a router table and a drill press. You’ll also need a couple of special router bits: a classic bit and a 1/8-in. round-over bit. An adjustable circle cutter is used to cut the round clock opening (see Sources, below).
The clock is made from Honduras mahogany plywood and lumber, as well as wenge (pronounced Wen-gay or wenj). Wenge is a dark-brown tropical hardwood that nicely complements the mahogany’s reddish-brown.
For the clock case, you’ll need 1/4-in.-thick mahogany plywood. It doesn’t take much, so buy a partial sheet unless you plan to make several clocks. You’ll also need a 3/4-in. x 6-in. x 48-in. piece of mahogany lumber and a chunk of wenge. Buy a piece of wenge that’s at least 3 in. wide by 32 in. long. It’s more than you actually need, but it’s easier and safer to cut the parts from a piece this size, rather than one that’s smaller.
The battery-powered clock mechanism is a one-piece insert, which is simply friction-fit into a hole in the clock front. This makes it easy to change the batteries or the time. The total cost to make this clock is about $65 (see Sources, below).
Laminate the Plywood First
Cut two 32-in. x 8-in. pieces of 1/4-in. mahogany plywood (Fig. B, page 35). Notice that the grain runs the short dimension on these parts. Glue these together to form the 1/2-in. mahogany plywood needed for the clock case (Photo 1). After the glue has dried, rip the 1/2-in. plywood to 7-1/2 in. wide on the tablesaw. Take about 1/4 in. off both edges so they are straight and parallel. Next, cut the two 1/8-in. dadoes in the face of the plywood (Photo 2, Fig. A, below).
Attach the Moldings and Trim
Make the upper and lower flat trim pieces (C, D, E and F). Place spacer strips in the small dadoes in the panel to provide a stop for the flat trim to push up against, and glue the flat trim to the 1/2-in. plywood panel (Photo 3). Remove the spacer sticks before the glue dries to prevent them from getting stuck.
Next cut a strip of mahogany for the top and bottom moldings (G, H, J and K). Use a classic router bit to shape them (Photo 4). Note that the top molding is 1/8 in. thinner than the bottom molding and they are attached to the plywood so they mirror each other (Fig. A). Glue and clamp them to the plywood (Photo 5). The edge of the molding and the plywood should be flush. If they’re not, wait until the glue has dried and trim the parts flush on your tablesaw. Complete the 1/2-in. plywood panel by cutting a rabbet at the top and bottom on the back side (Photo 6, Fig. A).
Miter the Sides
Set your tablesaw blade to 45 degrees and miter some test boards. Then use a tablesaw sled to miter the clock’s four sides. Start by cutting the sides about 1/4 in. oversize (Photo 7). It’s OK to leave the extra material on one edge. It will be cut off when you cut the parts to final width (Photo 8). Cut slowly to avoid chip-out on the moldings. Wenge is particularly prone to chip-out, but cutting at a slower rate helps avoid that problem. If you do get a chip, save it and glue it back on. Use a toothpick to apply the glue and masking tape to hold the chip in place.
Drill the opening for the clock insert into the clock case front (A, Photo 9). The clock insert is centered vertically on the case front between the two gold half-bead trim pieces (L).
Assemble the Case
Apply glue to two sides first and hold them together with masking tape. Add the other two sides one at a time. Stretch the tape, so it pulls the parts tightly together (Photo 10). Then glue in the bottom and add the four feet (S, Photo 11). Next make the lid (N). Cut the rabbets on the bottom of the lid (Detail 1). Check that the lid fits easily into the rabbet in the top of the clock case.
Now make the half-bead trim (L, M, P, Q) that goes around the case and the lid. This trim is very small, but is easy to make using our step-by-step cutting sequence (Fig. C, below). Miter the half-bead trim that goes around the lid and attach it to the underside of the lid (Photos 12 and 13). You’ll need some small spring clamps to hold these trim pieces in place while the glue dries (see Sources, below). Set aside the strips of half-bead trim (L, M) that go around the case. They will be used later.
Finishing Touches
Sand the entire clock case and lid with 180-grit paper and stain it (Photo 14). A red mahogany stain gives the mahogany a deep rich tone and helps even out any color difference between the plywood and the lumber (see Sources, below).
After the stain dries thoroughly (24 to 48 hours), brush on a satin polyurethane varnish (see Sources, below).
While the stain and finish dry, paint the half-bead trim gold (L, M, Photo 15). Miter it to final length and glue it into the dadoes on the clock case. All that’s left now is to install the battery in the clock mechanism, set the time and insert it into the clock case (Photo 16). Oh, yeah, don’t forget to add the candy.
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