bricofleur

Miter Saw Acute Angle Jig

2010-05-15T01:05:00Z

I’ve been thinking about making this jig for years. Since nice weather has arrived I have to make a picket fence. All slats will end to a sharp point, meaning I have to cut them at an acute angle. I used to do that on the tablesaw but each time I got several cutoffs flying around my head. No more !!!

The jig sits on the miter saw bed and is held down to the back fence with a spring clamp. Note that the fence of my saw is coated with PSA sanderpaper which prevents any shifting.

The jig is nothing more than a 1/4’’ plywood base and 3/4’’ plywood back and perpendicular fences. This latter must be square to the back fence and square to the base.

As shown, I clamp a workpiece to the perpendicular fence, slide the whole assembly to the line of cut (reason why I use a spring clamp), and then cut safely the acute angle.

An alternative to using a clamp to hold the workpiece to the perpendicular fence is adding a backer board between the fence of the saw and the back fence of the jig (shown in photos 1-2-3-6). This way the workpiece rests against this backer board, which prevents the saw blade from catching and kicking it towards the back.

Finally done!

Find 20 more photos and construction details from this page of my website.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #72

2010-04-04T17:50:00Z

To make the rabbets on which the glasses of the upper doors will rest on, I’ll be using this rabbeting bit. The bearing will follow the lower shoulder of the groove while the cutters will cut the upper shoulder to form the rabbets.

Standard bits cut 3/8’’ wide by 1/2’’ deep rabbets. Since my rabbets must be 1/2’’ wide, I will be using my new kit which permits changing the size of the bearing to get different widths of rabbets. The smaller diameter the bearing is, the wider will be the rabbet.

I’m using my shopmade D-handle router that has a hole large enough to accept this big router bit and a large base to stabilize the router on such narrow workpieces.

For the first pass I adjust the depth of the cutter to remove only 1/8’’ because I will make a backcut to minimize tearout.

This anti-skid pad will stabilize the workpiece. Here clamps would be a nuisance. Note the panel in the background that I use to prevent any dust from getting in tight spots hard to clean or vac.

Here is the first backcut. It is normal to get such irregular cut because the router tends to move the bit away from the workpiece because it is fed backward (right to left).

Here is the second pass, this one made to the right, as required.

Oops!

While checking my work I noticed that the bearing has slipped, has digged in the shoulder and has consequently let the bit cut too deeply.

I also noticed that the router has tipped once, therefore digging in the shoulder.

This last picture shows the mess.

Conclusion #1

I must make new doors.

Conclusion #2

Do not work when tired or distracted. Today I kicked myself to work to make some progress on the project. Not a good idea!

Conclusion #3

Consequences could have been more disastrous. At least, no injury.

To see the details and photos of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #70

2010-03-28T18:00:00Z

All the rails being cut, now let’s fine tune them.

I fine tune each tenon with this small shopmade tool that I call Poor Man Shoulder Plane. To learn more about this tool, clic here.

The expected result is a joint that dry, supports itself.

The dry assembly and the verification of all joints of the first door is done.

Since they are adjusted, I identify each of all joints.

Finally, I check for squareness by comparing the diagonals that must be identical. This is the last step before the glue up.

To see the details and photos of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #68

2010-03-25T21:35:00Z

After making the groove on the first rail I think about adding a featherboard to keep workpieces against the rip fence to obtain consistency on the grooves and the shoulders.

Here are the completed on the four rails and the four stiles.

I’m glad about the fact that I thought of checking the first groove I made without the featherboard. As you can see on the picture, this one is too sloppy. For sure that won’t make a strong joint.

I have the bad or the good habit to not disturb a setup until I need the tool or until the task is completed. Fortunatly here I am able to make another groove on a piece of scrap the same thickness and long enough to make another rail. Even the featherboard is in its position.

After making and verified the groove, I cut the rail to the required dimensions.

Al last, the four rails are now adequate.

To see the details and photos of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #66

2010-03-24T01:57:00Z

This is a first sanding session of the rails and the stiles. At this step I can make it easier by clamping them. As shown, I align them with a mallet and a block of wood.

The pad prevents from any slipping and I sand using 100-grit to 150-grit sandpaper for now.

Reminder

To see the details and photos of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Shopmade Clamp & Assembly Worktable

2010-03-19T19:19:00Z

I came up with this very unique and satisfying version of a clamp worktable, made right here in my shop, using material from my sheet goods scrap pile. I designed it so I could use my collection of ordinary and fast action vise clamps meant to be used at the drill press.

As shown, a 30" X 36" base is made out of 3/4" plywood, which is notched every 2-1/2" around the perimeter, 2" deep, to accept the vise clamps’ shank without removing (threading off) the O-nuts. This base is usefull to hold workpieces for sawing, carving, routing, sanding, etc. The clamping action is quick and positionning the vise clamps is nearly unlimited.

I also made a 30" X 24" sub-base out of 5/8" thick Melamine (so glue won't stick to it), on which I've added a 1-1/8" edge strip on 2 sides to register workpieces when required, like when drilling pocket holes, building drawers and carcasses square. Since those strips are screwed on the edge of the sub-base, they protrude 1/2" over the top surface giving me the registration edges I wanted. Here again the multi-positions feature I can get from the vise clamps is just incredible. To be removable, this sub-base is held to the base with four 1-1/4"-long 1/4-20 f.h. bolts and four 1/4-20 T-nuts installed from under the base.

To prevent the jig from slipping or creeping, I throw a router pad on the workbench, shop cart, Workmate, router table or sawhorses and I'm ready to go. When needed, I also clamp the base. I'm thinking about adding a removable block (with T-nuts & bolts) under the base so it could get clamped in the Workmate or the workbench vise to prevent it from creeping when side pressure is applied.

This is my best shopmade jig ever. Attached are some uses for this great jig.

For more details and photos, find it here on my website.

If you don’t want to build your own, you can buy one similar made by Kreg

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #64

2010-03-14T22:33:00Z

Finally, the construction of the hutch’s glass doors. To cut long boards on a tablesaw, the panel cutter is the safest. And if it’s well made, the cut wil be very precise and square.

The blade must be raised so one full tooth will protrude from the workpiece.

I start by making a narrow cut to square one end, then I check if it is square. If not, my panel cutter should be adjusted. Mine, shopmade, is adjustable.

I mark where to cut and I place this mark against the edge of the panel cutter. To be sure, I align the line with a small pocket rule.

To prevent tearout, I slide on the right side of the blade a scrap piece the same thickness as the panel cutter to keep the workpiece at the same level.

To see the details and photos of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #62

2010-03-07T18:15:00Z

One last molding to mill. I install this ogee bit in the router table and I align the fence barely in front of the bearing. Used in the router table, the bearing should not touch the workpiece. Since the expected life of bearings counts in hours, ideally the bearing should be temporarily removed. It looks like lazyness is gaining on me!

As usual, I make a test cut with the same material that I will use to make the molding.

Since the board is quite large and wide, these garden gloves will ease feeding it on the cutter.

After a first pass at the router table, I rip one length of the molding at the tablesaw and get back to the router table for a second pass. It would be too hazardous to mill such narrow pieces at the router table.

Two such long moldings will be enough to complete the project.

Another long sanding session in sight!

They are ready to be cut and installed.

To see the details and photos of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #58

2010-02-21T18:38:00Z

Now let’s mill the edges of the top shelves. I install a 3/8’’ roundover bit in the router table.

As usual, I proceed with test cuts. If you look closely on the photo you will see that I must readjust the height of the router bit to get rid of this disgracious line on the top.

I make visual tests to establish the width and the length of the upper shelves. According to this photo, the top shelf would be too proud from the moldings. This is a matter of taste. Then, I proceed to make the cut.

Here’s a result that pleases me.

Another sanding session, from 100-grit paper to 500-grit. And yes, I’m wearing my dust mask!

To sand the egges, I install the shelves in the bench vise. Doing so, I can sand the three required sides.

To see the details and photos of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Adjustable Cutoff Bin

2010-02-18T18:01:00Z

I've been thinking of building a cutoff bin for a long time and I came up with a version that offers more flexibility from what I saw up to now. Since my scrap pile is in constant evolution, I wanted to have a bin that would help organize the cutoffs effectively yet being big enough to hold as much wood as possible in a small space.

As shown, my bin has a fixed center divider and 6 optionnal dividers that I can add or remove in the blink of an eye (thanks to the 12 stopped dadoes).

The bin is made out of a one full sheet of 3/4" plywood and the 4" wide dividers are made from scrap wood. The added handle at each end are from 2X3 scraps.

For more details and a cutting diagram, visit the Workshop Gallery of my website.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #56

2010-02-11T01:22:00Z

I roughly cut the top shelves of the hutches.

I’m ripping strips to make the moldings to fill the underside of the top shelves. To stay on the safe side for the router table, I rip them wider than required.

I install a 1/2’’ roundover bit in the router table.

I align the bearing to the fence using a straight edge.

As usual, I make test cuts.

Once the moldings milled, I rip the strips at the tablesaw using an appropriate and safe push stick.

At right, the first batch of moldings is done.

To see the details and photos of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #54

2010-01-31T19:03:00Z

To give a decorative touch, I’m installing on the router a flush trim bit which has a fine V tip.

I align the V tip with the joint between the uprights and the face frame. The bearing riding against the uprights will assure uniformity.

To prevent any tipping on the edge, I’m using my shopmade D-handle router base.

By using this router bit, the joint is perfectly uniform.

To see the details of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #52

2010-01-24T18:20:00Z

To proceed gluing the face frames, I raise the casings on these shopmade I-beams. Doing so, I’ll be able to slip the clamps under the casings.

I spread a moderate amount of glue and insert the biscuits.

As shown, I proceed with one hutch at a time. The glue sets too quickly ! Only the clamps and the glue do the work, no nail and no screw here.

Here are the two face frames assembled to the hutches.

To support the lower shelf, which can’t be biscuited, I milled and I glue this molding under the lower shelf, where the shelf meets the face frame. I’m using pin nails to hold it while the glue sets.

The upper rail of the face frames is nailed in the upper shelf, which will be dressed with a molding, eventually hiding the nails’ heads.

To see the details of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #50

2010-01-11T01:41:00Z

I install the face frames on the upper hutches to mark for the biscuits. To do so, I use a block of wood to align the lower ends.

I’m using bar clamps to temporarily set the face frames and get a small T-square and a pencil.

At each 8-10 inches I trace an adjacent line on the side of the face frames and on the uprights. Those lines must be properly aligned.

Here is the tool and the method I use. Here the spring clamp holds the tool while I shoot the photo.

I use the base of the tool as reference, not the fence, reason why I’m adjusting the fence according to the base and the upright with this small ruler. Here precision is required.

To make the cuts I align the center mark of the tool with the lines I made on the uprights, and this for each of the biscuit slots to be cut.

The slots on the uprights are all done. As you can see, I will use biscuits only to attach the face frames to the uprights, not to the top and lower shelves.

To see the details of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

Twin Kitchen Hutches #48

2009-12-28T01:44:00Z

The final sanding is made by hand, particularly the rounded edges, that I sand with 500 grit sandpaper.

You should feel the smoothness of the edges. This is very nice wear simulation.

It looks like I’m wearing sawdust gloves!

Finally, the face frames are completely done. Nice!

To see the details of all the steps from the begining, click here.

Best,

Serge

http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com